An effective skincare routine for men

Choose for your skin type, not your gender

Men tend to have thicker skin, and testosterone can make skin oilier, but your own skin type matters more when choosing products. Choose products by skin type rather than the word "men" on the bottle, which is not a skin type.2

For a basic skin type check, wash your face, pat it dry and wait an hour. Press a tissue against your forehead, cheeks, nose and chin. A shiny face and oily residue suggest oily skin. Tightness or flaking without oily residue suggests dry skin. No shine or oily residue suggests normal skin. An oily forehead, nose and chin with normal or dry cheeks suggests combination skin. Skin that stings easily, especially after cleansing, is sensitive.3

For dry or sensitive skin, try a cream cleanser. For oily or combination skin, a foaming cleanser is an option. Choose a gentle cleanser with a balanced pH. If you are prone to acne, look for cleansers and moisturizers labeled "oil free" or "noncomedogenic," meaning formulated not to clog pores. Sensitive skin calls for mild products labeled "fragrance free." "Unscented" products can contain masking fragrances that still irritate skin.24

Washing removes excess oil, dirt, sunscreen and makeup. Cleansers contain surfactants, ingredients that loosen oil and dirt so water can rinse them away. An expensive cleanser can contain ingredients similar to a cheaper one, so the receipt is not a skin assessment. Focus on a cleanser your skin tolerates rather than its price.3

Your morning routine

1. 1Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and lukewarm water. Massage with your fingertips, rinse thoroughly and pat dry rather than rubbing. Avoid cleansers with microbeads, which can irritate skin.
2. 2Apply any skin medication or treatment after cleansing. Treatment comes before moisturizer in the usual application order.
3. 3Apply moisturizer while your skin is still slightly damp. Moisturizer traps water in the skin; apply it after shaving too.
4. 4Apply broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher before going outdoors. Cover exposed skin, including your scalp, ears, neck and lips.

Your evening routine

At bedtime, gently cleanse to remove the day's oil, dirt and sunscreen. Apply any skin treatment, then moisturizer. Wash after exercise as well. More washing is not automatically better: excessive washing removes surface oils, increases water loss and can leave skin dry and irritated. Be particularly careful with an acne cleanser if you also use an acne treatment that stays on the skin, because the combination can cause excessive dryness.35

For moisturizer ingredients, hyaluronic acid draws water into the skin, while ceramides help replenish the skin's protective barrier. Moisturizing can reduce the appearance of fine lines and make skin look brighter. Apply moisturizer to your body as well as your face immediately after bathing, showering or shaving, while skin is still damp.24

Sunscreen needs more than one morning application

SPF measures protection against UVB, the ultraviolet rays mainly responsible for sunburn. Broad spectrum sunscreen also protects against UVA. Both contribute to skin aging and skin cancer. SPF 30 offers high protection, while SPF 50 offers very high protection when enough sunscreen is applied. For a day outdoors, such as at the beach or golfing, choose SPF 50 or higher.16

Reapply sunscreen every two hours outdoors and immediately after swimming or sweating. Use shade and clothing as well, because sunscreen and clothing do not block all ultraviolet radiation. A hat that shades your face and neck, long sleeves and sunglasses with UV protection help cover areas that are easy to miss. Clothing labeled UPF 30 or higher offers good protection. Change into dry clothes after swimming, because wet fabric is often less protective.46

Daily sunscreen is a straightforward routine to follow throughout the year. Sun exposure also depends on location and season: protection is recommended when the UV index is 3 or higher, while winter exposure can be much lower far from the equator. Avoid intentional tanning, seek shade and limit exposure during peak summer sunshine hours, roughly 10 am to 4 pm. Take extra care at high altitude and around snow, which reflects ultraviolet radiation.16

How to shave with less irritation

1. 1Wet your skin and facial hair to soften them before shaving.
2. 2Apply a moisturizing shaving cream.
3. 3Shave in the direction your hair grows. Do not pull your skin taut.
4. 4Rinse the razor after every swipe.
5. 5Replace the blade after five to seven shaves.
6. 6Apply a gentle moisturizer afterward.

If you often get razor bumps, razor burn or ingrown hairs, try a razor with one or two blades rather than several, which can shave too closely. Avoid alcohol based aftershaves: they dry skin and can irritate it. Moisturizer is more helpful for most people.24

Should you add a serum or retinol?

An optional vitamin C serum can help protect against free radicals, substances that damage cells. Apply it after cleansing and before moisturizer in the morning. Retinol can help with fine lines, wrinkles, sun damage and dark patches, and supports collagen production. Use retinol at night because it increases sun sensitivity. Avoid piling on several products for signs of aging: too many can irritate skin and make those signs more noticeable.25

Keep shower habits gentle too

Shower daily to rinse off allergens, using water that is not overly hot. If you shower several times a day, use soap only once to avoid drying your skin. With sensitive or eczema prone skin, limit soap to your face, armpits and groin; normal skin can tolerate soap over the body. Fragrance in soap or body wash can dry and irritate skin. Avoid heavily fragranced bubble baths, and rinse afterward if you use bubbles or a bath bomb.7

When to change course or see a dermatologist

Stop using a cleanser that causes redness, itching, swelling or persistent stinging rather than continuing to scrub. Seek a dermatologist's help for skin problems that persist despite your routine. Check your skin regularly, and book an appointment for a suspicious new spot or mole that itches, bleeds or changes color. Changes in a growth's size or shape also need assessment. Men over 50 have a higher risk of melanoma, a serious skin cancer, than the general population.1234