Which lip treatment should you choose?

A thick ointment is the practical starting point for severe chapping, regardless of how many rescue words appear on the packaging. Ointments seal in water longer than waxes or oils. A beeswax balm is another option for sore, dry lips, but a thick ointment is the better starting texture when lips are very dry and cracked.12

TreatmentWhat to look forWhen to choose it
White petroleum jelly ointmentA thick ointment that does not irritate your lips.The starting option for very dry, cracked lips.
Beeswax lip balmA balm you tolerate without soreness or irritation.An alternative for soothing chapped lips.
Lip balm with sunscreenSPF 30 or higher, with zinc oxide or titanium oxide.Outdoor protection, with reapplication every 2 hours.
Vaseline Lip Therapy Advanced HealingThe US label lists white petrolatum, USP, at 100% as the active ingredient and also lists flavor.Temporary protection and relief of chapped or cracked lips; apply as needed.
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Vaseline Lip Therapy Advanced Healing is a named example, not a reason to ignore the ingredient list. Its label includes flavor, so do not treat it as an unflavored option. If avoiding flavoring is part of your plan, check the exact package before buying. Other Vaseline lip products are not interchangeable with this label.4

How to treat severely chapped lips

  1. 1Wash your hands before applying lip balm.
  2. 2Apply a nonirritating balm or thick ointment several times daily and before bed. Follow the package directions for the product you choose.
  3. 3Before going outdoors, apply your SPF lip balm. Reapply every 2 hours outside, including in winter.
  4. 4Cover your lips with a scarf in cold weather.
  5. 5Stop licking, biting or picking your lips. When you notice yourself licking them, apply a nonirritating balm instead.
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Avoid sharing lip balm, because sharing can spread germs. Keep drinking enough water to avoid dehydration, and keep the air at home humid. Protect your lips before going out in dry, cold or windy weather rather than waiting until they become sore.23

Which ingredients should you avoid while lips heal?

While lips are chapped, avoid camphor, eucalyptus, fragrance, lanolin, menthol, phenol, propyl gallate, salicylic acid, octinoxate and oxybenzone. Avoid flavoring too, especially cinnamon, citrus, mint and peppermint. Burning, stinging or tingling means irritation, not that the treatment is working.1

Choose fragrance free rather than relying on the word "unscented". Unscented products can contain fragrance ingredients that mask other smells. Pick the product for the job, not for a name that sounds like a hospital department.5

Could your lip balm be making things worse?

Lip care products can cause cheilitis, meaning inflammation of the lips. Fragrances are the most common cause of cosmetic contact dermatitis, an irritated or allergic skin reaction. Dyes and other cosmetic ingredients can also cause sensitivity. An allergy can develop after years of using a product without trouble, so an old favorite is not automatically ruled out.25

A lip salve containing propyl gallate can cause allergic contact dermatitis. Redness, swelling and intense itching are possible signs of an allergic reaction, but symptoms alone do not identify the ingredient responsible. Stop products that irritate your lips and avoid a known allergen. A dermatologist can use patch testing to investigate suspected cosmetic allergy rather than leaving you to keep guessing between tubes.56

How long should healing take?

With appropriate care, ordinary chapped lips should improve noticeably within 2 to 3 weeks. Continue protecting them in dry conditions after they improve. If they are not improving within that period, see a dermatologist. Persistent dryness can have another cause, including an allergic reaction or yeast infection.1

Follow any earlier review deadline on your product: Vaseline Lip Therapy Advanced Healing tells you to see a doctor if the condition lasts more than 7 days. It is for external use only, must be kept out of the eyes, and must not be used on deep or puncture wounds, animal bites or serious burns.4

When do you need medical help?

See a GP if your lips are hot, painful and swollen, because those symptoms can signal infection. Also have lip sores that will not heal checked. An infected lip sometimes needs a prescribed antibiotic or antifungal cream. A pharmacist can help you choose a treatment and decide whether you need a GP appointment.23

If your mouth is sore as well as your lips, choose soft, moist foods, let food and drinks cool, and avoid salty, spicy or sharp foods that sting. Speak to a GP, pharmacist or dentist if swallowing food, drinks or medicines is difficult, or if you suspect a mouth infection. Lip balm can help chapped lips, but accompanying mouth problems need their own assessment.7

Where this answer comes from

  1. 17 dermatologists' tips for healing dry, chapped lipsaad.org
  2. 2Sore or dry lipsnhs.uk
  3. 3Chapped lips: MedlinePlus Medical Encyclopediamedlineplus.gov
  4. 4Vaseline Lip Therapy Advanced Healingdailymed.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5Cosmetics Allergy: Causes, Symptoms, and Treatmentdermnetnz.org
  6. 6Allergic contact dermatitis imagedermnetnz.org
  7. 7Diet recommendations for mouth problems - Overviewguysandstthomas.nhs.uk