Can using too many active ingredients damage your skin?

What happens when you use too many skincare actives?

Your skin barrier is the outer layer that helps keep water in and chemicals and bacteria out. Harsh chemicals, harsh soaps, scrubbing and over exfoliating can weaken it. The skin barrier keeps water in and chemicals out; it is a barrier, not a tiny testing department.2

Irritant contact dermatitis is inflammation caused by something that injures the skin. The amount, concentration, frequency and duration of exposure matter, as does existing skin damage or an atopic tendency. Several irritants can have a cumulative effect. Multiple irritants can add up, so a routine does not get extra credit for good intentions.1

How do I know if I am using too many active ingredients?

Dryness, flaking, cracking, itch, redness, stinging and tenderness can be signs of irritation or a damaged barrier. Notice whether they appeared after adding a product, using more of it, or using it more often.2

• Dry, scaly or flaky skin, sometimes with cracks.
• Redness, itch, swelling or rough patches.
• Stinging or tenderness, especially when applying skincare.
• Burning, pain or blisters with stronger irritation.

A strong irritant can cause a reaction within minutes or hours; repeated exposure to a weaker irritant can take days or weeks to show up. An allergic reaction to a cosmetic is different: its rash usually starts more than 12 hours after contact and peaks around 48 hours. A cosmetic allergy can appear after years of uneventful use.3

Redness from dermatitis can be harder to see on darker skin, and dark marks after inflammation are more common. Look at how your skin feels as well as how it looks.1

Which skincare ingredients should not be used together?

Do not assume that every pair of actives is unsafe. Retinol and squalane can be used together; apply lighter serums or toners first, then squalane. If your skin gets dry while using retinol, consider a milder form. Retinoids and benzoyl peroxide can cause irritant contact dermatitis with long term use, so pay attention to how often and how much you apply.14

For adult acne, choose one product with an active ingredient suited to the kind of acne you have, rather than stacking several treatments at once. These are the active ingredients and uses described for common acne concerns:5

For acne, use the chosen product as directed for 6 to 8 weeks and do not add another product during that trial. If it works, you can expect fewer breakouts in 4 to 8 weeks and clearing around 16 weeks. Acne treatments do not work for everyone, so do not add more actives simply because results are not immediate.5

What should I do if my skin is reacting?

1. 1Pause the product you suspect and avoid likely irritants while your skin settles. Do not add another active to counteract the reaction.
2. 2Wash with warm, not hot, water and a mild cleanser without soap. Rinse when clean instead of scrubbing or massaging for a long time.
3. 3Stop exfoliating and scrubbing while your skin is irritated; both can damage the barrier.
4. 4Use a moisturizer or emollient. Products with ceramides, fatty acids and lipids can help keep the barrier healthy.
5. 5If you have broken skin around an acne spot, back down on acne treatments for a while and focus on gentle care while it heals.

Who should take extra care?

People with atopic dermatitis are especially susceptible to irritant dermatitis, so take extra care when adding products that can irritate. If you are pregnant or trying to get pregnant, speak with a dermatologist before treating acne yourself; some nonprescription acne treatments are not safe during pregnancy.15

How long does recovery take, and when should I see a dermatologist?

Barrier care can take three or four months to start showing benefits, and chronic irritant dermatitis can be slow to improve. Do not wait that long to seek help if the reaction is severe, blistering, recurring or not settling after avoiding suspected irritants. A clinician can assess the rash; patch testing can help distinguish an allergic reaction from irritation, and both can occur together. For acne, see a dermatologist if treatment is not helping after several weeks, or if acne is deep, painful or leaving scars.125