Dark spots on your face: what helps them fade?

What is causing the dark spots?

Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation means extra pigment left after skin inflammation or injury. These marks develop where the original problem healed, such as after acne, dermatitis or a burn. Inflammation increases production of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour. Pigment can collect near the surface or deeper in the skin. These marks can affect anyone, but they are more common, stronger in colour and longer lasting in darker skin tones. Sunlight can darken them further. Treating the ongoing cause matters: fading yesterday's marks will not prevent new ones if acne or irritation continues.13

Melasma usually causes flat, blotchy brown patches on both sides of the face, commonly around the cheeks, forehead, nose or upper lip. Sunlight and hormonal factors, including pregnancy and hormonal contraception, can contribute. Melasma can involve surface pigment, deeper pigment or both; surface pigment generally responds better to treatment. Not every facial patch is melasma. Freckles, sun spots, medication related pigmentation and marks after inflammation can resemble it, so appearance alone is not enough to choose a treatment confidently.24

How should you protect dark spots from sunlight?

1. 1Choose a tinted, broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher and iron oxides for protection against visible light as well as ultraviolet light. SPF 50 or higher is a useful choice for extra protection.
2. 2Apply sunscreen every morning to exposed skin, including your face. Apply plenty 15 to 30 minutes before going outside.
3. 3Reapply every two hours outdoors and after swimming, sweating or towel drying.
4. 4Add a wide brimmed hat and shade. Sunscreen does not replace either.

Look for iron oxides in the sunscreen's inactive ingredient list and choose a tint that blends with your skin tone. For oily skin, look for a noncomedogenic formula, meaning one designed not to clog pores. Visible light protection is useful for pigmentation; there is no evidence that blue light from personal electronic devices affects melasma.12

What can you use for dark spots on your face?

For acne with leftover marks, azelaic acid or an acne retinoid can address both problems. Vitamin C is a morning option. If choosing glycolic acid, start once or twice a week at night and increase use only if your skin is not irritated. Follow the directions for the actual product rather than treating every fading ingredient as interchangeable. A routine you can keep using is more useful than a complicated one, even if the complicated one looks more impressive lined up by the sink.56

Does retinol help with dark spots?

Yes. Retinol is one of the retinoids used to fade dark spots. Acne retinoids also include adapalene, tretinoin, tazarotene and trifarotene, but they are not interchangeable products with identical directions. Dermatologists often recommend applying topical acne retinoids in the evening. Irritation can occur. If a prescribed retinoid irritates your skin, tell your dermatologist rather than changing the prescription yourself. They can advise on using a smaller amount, applying it less often or applying moisturizer first. Continue sun protection while using a retinoid.15

Can you use kojic soap for dark spots?

Kojic acid can help with excess pigmentation, but a soap's ingredients and directions depend on the exact product. KOJICACIDSOAP DARKSPOT, for example, lists both kojic acid and retinol. Its label directs you to lather onto wet skin and rinse immediately, not leave the lather sitting on your face. The label allows facial use but warns against applying it to damaged or broken skin. Keep it out of your eyes, rinse with water if needed, and stop use and ask a doctor if a rash occurs. Those directions apply to that soap, not every product sold as kojic soap.67

Why does exfoliation lighten dark spots?

Exfoliation helps remove surface cells that contain pigment. Alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid loosen the bonds between surface cells so dead cells shed more readily. This can improve discoloration near the surface, but exfoliation does not reach all deeper pigment. More exfoliation is not automatically better: excessive use can irritate skin and remove structures that help retain water and healthy fats. Exfoliating acids also increase susceptibility to sun damage. Professional peels can remove superficial pigment, but peels and lasers can worsen pigmentation and require experienced care.346

How long do dark spots take to fade?

After the cause stops, a mark a few shades darker than your usual skin colour often fades within 6 to 12 months. Deeper pigment can take years; it often looks slate blue, grey or much darker brown. Treatment can speed fading. Melasma responds slowly, especially when longstanding, and can return with summer sun exposure. Cosmetic camouflage can cover pigmentation while treatment continues, so makeup does not have to wait for skincare to finish its paperwork.134

Who should be careful, and when should you see a doctor?

• During pregnancy, avoid retinoid creams and hydroquinone. Pregnancy related melasma can improve a few months after delivery.
• For sensitive or irritated skin, choose gentle, fragrance free products. Stop a skincare product if it burns or stings.
• If you suspect medication is causing pigmentation, speak to the prescribing doctor. Do not stop the medicine yourself.
• Tell a doctor about changes to a mole or patch of skin rather than automatically treating it as a dark spot.
• If treatment is not giving the results you want, a dermatologist can identify the cause and choose stronger treatment safely. Never use liquid bleach on skin.

For melasma, medical options include hydroquinone, supervised combination creams and, for selected patients, tranexamic acid. Hydroquinone can irritate skin and occasionally darken it; a doctor should direct its use. Combination creams can include hydroquinone, a retinoid and a steroid. Do not assemble that combination yourself. Procedures are not a shortcut without tradeoffs: chemical peels can worsen pigmentation or cause scarring, and laser results vary. Microneedling and some light or laser treatments also carry a substantial risk of relapse.24