Does glycolic acid help with dandruff?

What can glycolic acid actually do?

A scalp routine combining an exfoliating scrub containing glycolic acid, salicylic acid and other hydroxy acids with a separate serum reduced attached scalp flakes over 15 days in adults with mild to moderate dandruff. That makes the combination promising, not glycolic acid alone an established treatment. There is no settled glycolic acid strength, application schedule or contact time for treating dandruff. Do not turn those combination results into instructions for leaving a facial acid toner on your scalp overnight.1

Why removing flakes is only part of the job

Dandruff is usually a symptom of seborrheic dermatitis, a skin condition that causes flaking and sometimes redness and irritation. The exact cause is unknown, but oil gland activity, Malassezia yeast, changes in the skin barrier and genes can contribute. Malassezia can break down scalp oils into fatty acids that trigger inflammation. Treatment therefore needs to do more than clear away loose skin: some dandruff shampoos control yeast, while others reduce scale.3456

What should you use instead?

Choose a shampoo labelled to treat dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis. Options include ketoconazole, salicylic acid, selenium sulfide, zinc pyrithione and coal tar. Salicylic acid is an acid used in dandruff shampoos; choosing an acid does not have to mean choosing glycolic acid. A bottle's dandruff treatment directions are more useful than an exfoliating claim with a very confident font. A pharmacist can help you choose a shampoo and explain how to use it.247

How to use dandruff shampoo

Follow the shampoo bottle's instructions rather than a scalp routine with excellent social media lighting.7

1. 1Apply and lather the shampoo on your scalp. For curly or coily hair, keep the medicated shampoo on the scalp because dandruff ingredients can dry the hair.
2. 2Leave the shampoo on for the time stated on the bottle, then rinse. Some shampoos need about 5 to 10 minutes, but that is not a universal contact time.
3. 3Match frequency to the directions and your hair type. Fine or straight hair, or an oily scalp, can need frequent regular washing, with dandruff shampoo about twice weekly. Coarse, curly or coily hair generally needs washing as needed and dandruff shampoo about once weekly.
4. 4Use your normal shampoo and conditioner afterwards if needed for hair care. Give the dandruff shampoo up to four weeks to see whether symptoms improve.

What if it works, then the flakes return?

Seborrheic dermatitis comes and goes, so treatment controls it rather than permanently removing the tendency to flare. Once symptoms are controlled, continued dandruff shampoo use once weekly often helps prevent flares. If a shampoo stops working as well, tell your dermatologist; rotating shampoos with different active ingredients can help. If shampoo is insufficient, prescription treatment can target yeast or inflammation rather than adding more exfoliation.46

When should you get your scalp checked?

See a doctor if dandruff persists after at least four weeks of dandruff shampoo, or sooner if your scalp is very itchy, red, swollen or painful. Flaky, itchy patches on your face or elsewhere also warrant a check. Contact a clinician if patches drain fluid or pus or form crusts. A clinician can check whether another skin condition is causing the symptoms and choose treatment accordingly.24