Does panthenol soothe skin?

How does panthenol help?

Panthenol, also called provitamin B5, is a humectant: an ingredient that attracts water to the skin's outer layer. It can improve hydration and reduce water loss through the skin. Panthenol also has anti inflammatory properties and supports repair of the outer skin layer. After absorption, the skin converts panthenol to pantothenic acid, a substance needed for that layer to function.12

The skin barrier keeps water in and helps keep irritants and allergens out. When the barrier is impaired, skin loses more water and becomes more permeable. Improving moisture retention therefore addresses part of the reason dry skin feels uncomfortable, rather than simply making its surface feel softer.3

What results should you expect?

In a trial involving 35 adults with dry, sensitive leg skin, a moisturizer containing panthenol, niacinamide and dipotassium glycyrrhizate improved hydration, dryness and itching. Participants applied the moisturizer twice daily for 28 days, with the other leg left untreated for comparison. Hydration increased by about 66% after seven days and 74% after 28 days compared with the starting measurements. Water loss also decreased, and scaling improved.2

Those figures describe that complete moisturizer on dry leg skin, not the expected result from every panthenol product. Choose a complete moisturizer rather than shopping for panthenol as though the rest of the jar were packing material.2

How should you use a panthenol moisturizer?

1. 1Test the finished product first. Apply your usual amount to a spot about the size of a quarter on the underside of your arm or the bend of your elbow, twice daily for seven to 10 days.
2. 2Leave the test application on for as long as you normally would. If redness, itching or swelling develops, wash the product off and stop using it.
3. 3If the test area stays clear, start using the moisturizer normally. Applying moisturizer soon after bathing helps support hydration; this is general moisturizer guidance, not a special panthenol technique.
4. 4Follow the finished product's directions. Twice daily use was the schedule in the dry skin trial, rather than a universal dose for every panthenol formula.

A panthenol moisturizer can be the moisturizer in your routine, rather than an extra layer added because the ingredient has its own fan club. For dry skin, other useful moisturizer components include lipids that support the barrier and ingredients that reduce water evaporation.3

Can a soothing product still irritate skin?

Yes. Preservatives, fragrance or other ingredients in a skincare product can cause an itchy, red or swollen reaction. A separate 28 day trial of a protective cream containing panthenol and other ingredients reported no treatment related adverse events in 22 women, but testing your own finished product remains worthwhile.14

If fragrance triggers your skin, choose products labeled "fragrance free"; "unscented" products can still contain fragrance ingredients. Stop a suspected product if a rash appears. A cool compress or petroleum jelly can help relieve a reaction. See a dermatologist if the reaction is severe and those measures do not help, or if you cannot identify what keeps triggering the rash. Medical patch testing can help find the cause.45