What can rosehip oil actually do?

Rosehip oil is an oil harvested from rose seeds. Its fatty acids help keep skin hydrated, and the oil is fairly lightweight and easily absorbed. Improving pigmentation is a possible benefit, rather than a predictable result. Treat rosehip oil as an optional moisturizer, not the department responsible for deleting dark spots.1

Rosehip extracts and oils are promising skincare ingredients, but their effects still need further investigation. A rosehip extract in a formulated treatment is not interchangeable with plain seed oil. There is no reliable rosehip oil schedule for fading pigmentation, so promises of a particular result after a particular number of weeks are premature.3

Which kind of dark spots are you treating?

Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation means dark marks left after skin inflammation or injury. These marks appear where the original problem healed and can darken in sunlight. Anyone can develop them, but they are more common, more intense and longer lasting in darker skin tones. Pigment can sit near the surface or deeper in the skin, which changes how well treatment works.4

Melasma is a different cause of uneven facial pigmentation, with triggers including sunlight and hormonal changes. It can fade after pregnancy or persist for years. A dermatologist can distinguish melasma from other conditions and tailor treatment to the pigment's depth and your triggers. Treatment commonly combines sun protection with medication; results usually take 3 to 12 months.5

How to try rosehip oil

  1. 1Test a small amount on your forearm before applying rosehip oil across your face or body. Allergy and irritation are possible.
  2. 2Apply pure rosehip oil directly to skin. It can be used once or twice daily; follow the product's directions for a blended formula.
  3. 3Stop using rosehip oil if it burns or stings. Irritation from skincare can cause further dark marks.
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Choose rosehip oil in a dark amber bottle, which protects it from UV rays that can reduce its effectiveness. Unrefined oil can leave noticeable color on skin and clothes, so its cosmetic ambitions can extend to the laundry. If your skin is oily, rosehip oil is an optional step to skip rather than an essential pigmentation treatment.1

What should you prioritize instead?

  • Address the trigger. Ongoing acne or irritation can keep producing new marks even while older ones fade.
  • Use tinted sunscreen containing iron oxide, with broad spectrum protection, SPF 30 or higher and water resistance. Apply before going outside and reapply every two hours outdoors, and after swimming or sweating. Iron oxide helps protect against visible light, which can contribute to dark spots.
  • Consider a targeted ingredient such as azelaic acid, vitamin C, glycolic acid, kojic acid or a retinoid. These ingredients can fade existing dark spots.
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If you choose retinol, start cautiously: it can irritate skin, and lightening spots takes months. Patch test first, then introduce it at bedtime every other day for the first couple of weeks, following the package directions. If you are pregnant, talk to your healthcare provider before using pigmentation medication.6

How long should fading take?

After the cause stops, marks a few shades darker than your skin usually fade within 6 to 12 months; deeper pigment can take years. That natural fading is separate from any effect of rosehip oil. See a dermatologist if treatment is not delivering the results you want. Do not stop prescribed medication because you suspect it causes pigmentation; ask the prescriber about alternatives.2

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Rose Hip Oil: Uses and Benefitshealth.clevelandclinic.org
  2. 2How to fade dark spots in darker skin tonesaad.org
  3. 3Unveiling the mechanisms for the development of rosehip-based dermatological products: an updated reviewpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4Postinflammatory hyperpigmentationdermnetnz.org
  5. 5Melasma: Diagnosis and treatmentaad.org
  6. 6Retinol: Cream, Serum, What It Is, Benefits, How To Usemy.clevelandclinic.org