Fragrance free skincare: what to choose and how to use it

What do fragrance free and unscented actually mean?

In the US, fragrance free is not a federally standardised definition, although cosmetic labels must be truthful and not misleading. Treat the wording as a starting point, then read the ingredient panel. A product does not have to be completely odourless to be fragrance free: its other ingredients can have their own scent. The label "for sensitive skin" has no federal definition in the US, which leaves the adjective doing rather a lot of work.24

Who benefits from avoiding fragrance?

Fragrance is the most common source of contact dermatitis from cosmetics. Contact dermatitis means skin inflammation caused by something touching your skin, either through irritation or an allergic reaction. Avoiding fragrance is especially useful when fragrance is a known trigger. Fragrance free formulas also form part of care for nummular eczema, a type of eczema for which keeping skin moisturised helps reduce flares. Choosing fragrance free is not the same as choosing a product you cannot react to: preservatives and other cosmetic ingredients can also cause reactions.135

Natural fragrance is not an escape route from fragrance allergy. Fragrance chemicals can come from natural extracts or be made synthetically, and either type can cause allergy. Botanical, herbal or natural wording can conceal a fragrance ingredient rather than identify it clearly. Once you know your trigger, the useful distinction is whether the product contains it, not whether the packaging presents it as plant derived.6

How to choose fragrance free skincare

1. 1Look for fragrance free wording rather than relying on an unscented label.
2. 2Read the ingredient panel for fragrance, perfume and any individual ingredients you know you are allergic to. Fragrance blends can be listed collectively without naming every component.
3. 3Ask the manufacturer about unclear ingredients rather than guessing from the product's smell.
4. 4Read the directions before using the product. Fragrance free wording does not replace instructions about application or rinsing.
5. 5Recheck ingredients when buying a replacement. Formulas can change without notice.

For a diagnosed fragrance allergy, avoid products containing fragrance and products without ingredient labels. Individual fragrance names can make avoidance difficult, and a fragrance can have several names. Keep the names identified through allergy testing available when shopping. A fragrance free label is a useful filter, not permission to stop reading the rest of the bottle.6

How should you use fragrance free products?

Follow each product's directions for frequency and time of day; fragrance free describes the formula, not a separate application schedule. For nummular eczema, use a mild fragrance free cleanser, body wash or soap made for dry skin. Choose a fragrance free cream or ointment rather than a lotion. Apply moisturiser every day throughout the year, including to damp skin after bathing and handwashing, and moisturise dry areas throughout the day. Moisturiser helps trap water in the skin and can help healing and reduce flares. Use lukewarm water and keep baths and showers to no longer than 20 minutes.14

Makeup removal wipes need the same ingredient check as bottled skincare. Wipes sold for makeup removal count as cosmetics, even if the format makes them look like skincare stationery. Use them only on intact, unbroken skin and for their intended purpose. Follow any rinsing directions and let your skin dry thoroughly afterwards. Keep the container tightly closed and avoid storing wipes in extreme heat or cold. If wipes cause a rash, irritation or burning where they touch your skin, stop using them and contact a healthcare professional promptly.2

Can you test a new product before using it widely?

For people with fragrance allergy, an open application test can help screen a new product. For a leave on product, apply a dot to the same small area of the forearm or inner upper arm twice daily for two weeks. Do not use the product if a rash develops. This is different from diagnostic patch testing, which a clinician uses to identify allergens. Do not leave an undiluted wash off product under a patch: prolonged contact can itself irritate the skin.6

What should you expect after switching?

Removing the substance causing contact dermatitis can allow the rash to clear, but there is no single clearing time for switching to fragrance free skincare. Reactions do not always appear immediately. An allergic cosmetic rash usually develops more than 12 hours after contact and peaks around 48 hours. Irritation from weaker irritants can take days or weeks of repeated exposure to appear. You can also develop a cosmetic allergy after years of using a product without problems. A long history with a bottle does not rule it out as the cause.35

What if the rash continues?

Stop using the skincare product you suspect is causing the rash. Think beyond the area where you applied your moisturiser: shampoo and conditioner can run down the sides of your face, and products touching the delicate eye area can cause a reaction there. Fragrance can also transfer from your hands to your face. If avoiding the suspected product does not reveal the cause, a dermatologist can help identify it.36

Discuss suspected allergic reactions with a healthcare professional and identify the product you think triggered them. Diagnostic patch testing can help pinpoint an allergen so you can avoid it across products. Seek immediate medical attention for breathing difficulty, trouble swallowing, faintness or loss of consciousness, which can be signs of a severe allergic reaction.4