What should you check first?
- 1Confirm the active ingredient in each product. For medicines, check the approved medicine information for uses, doses and safety details. The FDA also has a label search by active ingredient.
- 2Compare the stated concentrations. A higher concentration can increase penetration, but concentration alone does not tell you how the complete formula will perform.
- 3Compare the base, meaning the cream, gel, lotion or ointment carrying the active. The base affects application, contact with skin and delivery of the active.
- 4Check the other ingredients. Ingredients in the base can increase or reduce potency or absorption, so a matching active and percentage are only part of the comparison.
- 5Read each product's directions before choosing. Compare the amount, application frequency, treatment area and duration rather than carrying one product's instructions over to another.
Small formulation changes can make substantial differences to a topical medicine's effectiveness. Compare the complete formula, not just the matching name on the front, which is where the packaging would prefer the investigation to end.1
Which texture fits where you will use it?
| Form | Typical texture | Useful distinction |
|---|---|---|
| Lotion | Thin and easy to spread | Emollient lotions suit hairy areas but are less moisturising than richer options. |
| Cream | Thicker than lotion and often moisturising | Emollient creams are less greasy than ointments and suit daytime use. |
| Ointment | Greasy, thick and protective | Emollient ointments suit very dry, thickened skin, but should not be used on weeping eczema. |
| Gel | A water or alcohol based semisolid | Gels are often useful on hairy areas; check the complete formula rather than assuming every gel is alike. |
Manufacturers use texture names differently, so 'cream' is a category, not a binding personality test. Choose a base suited to the treatment site: a lotion, solution, gel or foam generally works better on hairy areas, while skin folds usually call for a cream or lotion rather than an occlusive ointment.1
Is the higher percentage the better choice?
Do not automatically choose the highest percentage. For example, when starting benzoyl peroxide for acne, choose 2.5% rather than jumping to the available 10% strength to help avoid dryness, irritation and burning. That is specific guidance for benzoyl peroxide, not a starting percentage for every skincare active.5
How do you judge the product after buying it?
For acne products, use one product as directed for 6 to 8 weeks without adding another treatment during that trial. Fewer breakouts can appear within 4 to 8 weeks, with clearing at around 16 weeks if the treatment works for you. Those timelines are for acne treatment, not every product sharing an active ingredient.5
When does the choice need extra care?
If an emollient causes persistent burning, stinging, inflamed hair follicles or a facial rash, speak to a pharmacist or clinician about another option. When combining an emollient with a steroid cream or another skin treatment, leave 20 to 30 minutes between them and ask which to apply first.4
If you are pregnant or trying to conceive, ask a dermatologist before treating acne yourself. Deep, painful pimples or acne that leaves scars also need a dermatologist rather than another comparison of shop bought products.5
Where this answer comes from
- 1Topical formulationsdermnetnz.org
- 2Vehicles for Drug Delivery and Cosmetic Moisturizers: Review and Comparisonpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 3FDA Label Search-Ingredient Namelabels.fda.gov
- 4Emollientsnhs.uk
- 5Adult acne treatment dermatologists recommendaad.org