How to prevent acne scars

Which breakouts need early medical help?

Cysts are large lumps containing pus and carry the greatest risk of permanent scarring. Nodules are large, hard lumps beneath the skin. Both need proper treatment to reduce scarring risk. A GP or dermatologist can assess the breakouts and prescribe treatment when pharmacy products are not enough. Blackheads and whiteheads deserve treatment too: untreated comedonal acne, the name for these clogged pores, can become inflammatory acne.45

How to care for skin without making breakouts worse

1. 1Wash gently morning and evening with a mild cleanser and lukewarm water. Use your fingertips, not a scrub, and pat dry with a clean towel. Washing more than twice a day can irritate skin and worsen acne.
2. 2Apply acne treatment as directed on the product or by your prescriber. Dermatologists often recommend applying topical retinoids in the evening. Applying extra medication does not clear acne faster.
3. 3Use a fragrance free, water based moisturizer if your skin is dry. Remove makeup completely before bed, and choose skincare and makeup labelled noncomedogenic, meaning less likely to clog pores.
4. 4Wear sunscreen daily. Choose noncomedogenic sunscreen with broad spectrum protection, SPF 30 or higher and water resistance, particularly when using a retinoid. Seek shade and use protective clothing too.

Noncomedogenic is a useful label claim for acne prone skin, unlike packaging that merely looks qualified to work in a pharmacy.4

Which treatments help prevent new breakouts?

For mild acne, a pharmacist can help you choose a treatment such as benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. Benzoyl peroxide reduces acne causing bacteria; salicylic acid opens clogged pores. Retinoids such as adapalene clear pores and can prevent new breakouts. Azelaic acid treats acne and the dark spots left afterwards. The choice depends on your breakouts, rather than assembling every active ingredient into one routine.136

A 2.5% benzoyl peroxide product is a starting option to reduce irritation; higher concentrations can cause dryness and flaking. If 2.5% irritates your skin, try it every other day. If a prescribed retinoid irritates your skin, contact your dermatologist before changing the amount, frequency or application order. Tell your healthcare provider about medication side effects.156

How long should you give treatment?

Expect at least 6 to 8 weeks before you start seeing fewer breakouts; acne treatments can take up to 3 months to work. Continue your prescribed plan rather than abandoning it after a few days. After acne improves, ongoing skincare and, for some people, a maintenance retinoid help prevent its return.246

Dark marks and scars need different attention

Dark spots after acne are called hyperpigmentation; scars can be raised or sunken. In darker skin tones, treating acne early helps prevent dark marks and raised scars called keloids. Treat active acne alongside lingering dark spots so new breakouts do not keep creating more marks. Before trying a chemical peel, microdermabrasion or laser treatment, see a dermatologist experienced in treating darker skin: even home versions can cause permanent dark marks or light spots.17

Managing active acne comes before treating existing scars, however impatient the scar serum's name sounds. Established scars can need dermatologist treatments such as laser resurfacing, microneedling or injections, depending on their shape.7

See a GP if self treatment is not helping, spots are causing scars, or acne is affecting your mental health. Also seek medical assessment for signs of infection, such as hot, swollen and red skin; redness can be harder to see on brown and black skin.3