Is eye cream a scam?

Do you need a separate eye cream?

Start with sunscreen and moisturizer, and give them a few weeks before deciding whether you want another product for a remaining concern. Moisturizer traps water in skin and makes fine lines less noticeable. A separate eye cream is an optional targeted addition, not the foundation of the routine, despite having secured its own department.23

Skin around the eyes is particularly thin and easily irritated. Eye creams tend to be thicker and contain more oil than regular facial creams, with ingredients aimed at concerns such as wrinkles, pigmentation or puffiness. That makes the formula worth checking; the words "eye cream" alone do not tell you whether it is the right purchase.14

What can eye cream actually help with?

• For dryness and fine lines made more visible by dryness, look for moisturizing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides. Hydrated skin looks plumper.
• For lines and wrinkles, retinol supports collagen production. Peptides are another option aimed at skin firmness.
• For discoloration, vitamin C can brighten the eye area, while niacinamide and kojic acid reduce activity in pigment producing cells.
• For puffiness linked to fluid accumulation, caffeine is an ingredient to consider.

Dark circles have several causes, including visible blood vessels, aging and hollows beneath the eyes. Puffiness also has several causes, including fluid accumulation and changes in facial structure. Choose for the concern rather than expecting one cream to address every cause. Whether a particular eye cream outperforms other skincare products remains uncertain.1

Which claims deserve skepticism?

Effective aging skin products exist at every price point, so a bigger bill is not a more detailed treatment plan. Expect modest improvements, not the results of a facelift. Promises of looking years younger overnight or quickly correcting every sign of aging are unrealistic.2

Growth factors are included in some cosmetics to promote collagen production, but their large molecular size limits penetration through the skin's outer barrier. An elaborate ingredient story is not a reason on its own to choose a cream.5

How should you use eye cream?

1. 1Cleanse your skin before applying eye cream.
2. 2Use a small amount and gently pat it around the eye area with a finger. Avoid pulling or tugging.
3. 3Apply eye cream before moisturizer so its ingredients can reach the skin.

Use moisturizer daily and apply sunscreen before going outdoors. Choose broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher with water resistance, and reapply every two hours outdoors. The sunscreen used on the rest of your face can also protect the eye area. Sunglasses help reduce fine lines around the eyes; an eye cream does not get to take their job.234

For sensitive skin, choose a formula labelled for sensitive skin and avoid strongly scented creams, which can irritate and dry the eye area. Retinoids can cause redness, peeling and dryness. Avoid introducing several aging skin products within a few days or weeks, because the combination can irritate skin.124