Why is it called both an emollient and a moisturizer?

A moisturizer adds moisture to skin; an emollient softens and smooths it. The terms are often used interchangeably for whole products, although an emollient can also mean one ingredient within a moisturizer. One cream can do both jobs, despite the terminology making it sound as though you need two purchases.2

Urea is naturally present in the skin's natural moisturizing factor, a mixture that helps keep the outer skin layer hydrated. At concentrations of 2% to 12%, urea has both emollient and water attracting effects. The cream's base matters too: ingredients that form a protective surface layer help reduce water loss.12

Which strength should you choose?

For moisturizing moderately dry skin, 5% and 10% urea creams are established options. Urea is particularly useful when skin is scaly or another emollient has not helped. For mild dryness without scaling, a plain emollient is a reasonable starting point because urea can sting or irritate.45

Higher strength products have a different purpose. A 25% urea heel balm is used for hard, callused and fissured foot skin, with 10% urea cream used for maintenance after the initial treatment. Higher concentrations have more keratolytic activity, meaning they help break down thickened skin rather than simply moisturize it.34

How do you use urea cream?

  1. 1Choose a strength intended for the area and follow that product's directions.
  2. 2Wash with a fragrance free cleanser or moisturizing body wash rather than repeatedly stripping dry skin with soap.
  3. 3Apply the cream immediately after bathing, while skin is still damp, to help retain water.
  4. 4Reapply as directed. General emollient care often needs two to three applications daily; slightly dry skin can need only a light moisturizer at night.
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Creams suit broad application and are lighter than ointments. Greasier preparations generally provide a stronger emollient effect, but a less oily texture can be more practical during the day. Choose an effective texture you are willing to use regularly, rather than appointing an unopened tub as head of skin maintenance.27

How long does it take to help?

In a small study of 20 adults aged 65 to 82 with moderate to severe dry skin on their arms or legs, a particular 10% urea cream applied twice daily improved dryness, itching and scaling after seven days, with further improvement after 14 days. Treat this as a useful timeframe for that use, not a deadline for every urea product. Regular application matters because emollient effects are short lived.17

Who should be careful?

Urea often stings on scratched or cracked skin. If an emollient causes stinging or irritation, consider another preparation; stop using it if a contact dermatitis rash develops. Seek a dermatologist's help if dryness does not improve or becomes painful, bleeding or very irritating.267

If you use prescription creams on the same area, ask how to combine them with urea: urea can increase penetration of some medicines, including corticosteroids and antifungals. For creams containing paraffin, keep clothing and bedding carrying cream residue away from cigarettes and naked flames because of the burn risk.23

Where this answer comes from

  1. 110% urea cream in senile xerosis: Clinical and instrumental evaluationpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2Emollients and Moisturizers (Moisturisers)dermnetnz.org
  3. 3The Use of Urea Cream for Hand Eczema and Urea Foam for Seborrheic Dermatitis and Psoriasiform Dermatoses of the Scalppmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4netFormularynottinghamshireformulary.nhs.uk
  5. 5mpd.doncasterccg.nhs.ukmpd.doncasterccg.nhs.uk
  6. 6How to pick the right moisturizer for your skinaad.org
  7. 7Emollientskentandmedwayformulary.nhs.uk