Men's skincare reviews: what is worth buying?

Do men need different skincare?

Men generally have thicker skin and produce more sebum, the skin's natural oil, than women. These are broad differences, not a description of every man's face: age, environment and lifestyle also affect skin. The basic routine remains the same.12

Which products suit your skin type?

Noncomedogenic means formulated not to clog pores; it is a useful shopping label, not a promise of no breakouts. For sensitive skin, check for "fragrance free" rather than "unscented": an unscented product can contain fragrance added to mask another smell.3

How should you use the basics?

1. 1Cleanse in the morning and at night, and after heavy sweating. Wet your face with lukewarm water, apply a gentle cleanser with your fingertips, then rinse. Avoid hot water, scrubbing and abrasive tools. Pat dry with a soft towel.
2. 2Apply moisturizer while your skin is still slightly damp. Use it morning and evening, including after shaving. Apply gently around the eyes rather than pulling the skin.
3. 3Apply sunscreen in the morning before going outdoors. Choose broad spectrum protection, SPF 30 or higher and water resistance. Cover exposed skin, not just the middle of your face, and reapply during outdoor exposure.

A cleanser needs to remove dirt without turning washing into abrasion. Choose a gentle, nonabrasive formula without alcohol. A washcloth or mesh sponge can irritate skin, and scrubbing does not make cleansing better. Limit routine washing to twice daily, with an additional wash after heavy sweating, especially under a hat or helmet.4

Which moisturizer ingredients are useful?

Hyaluronic acid draws water into the skin and helps retain it. Ceramides are fats naturally present in the skin's protective barrier; a moisturizer containing ceramides helps replenish that barrier. Moisturizer traps water in the skin, which can make fine lines look less noticeable. Apply it after bathing or shaving while the skin is damp.13

What makes a sunscreen worth buying?

Broad spectrum sunscreen protects against both UVA and UVB rays. SPF describes protection against UVB damage, so a high SPF number is not the whole label. On UK sunscreens, look for SPF 30 or higher and at least four star UVA protection; a UVA circle indicates the EU standard. Check the expiry date and the open jar symbol showing how many months the product lasts after opening.5

Apply sunscreen generously about 30 minutes before going outdoors. Cover your ears, neck, hands and exposed scalp, and use a lip balm with sunscreen. Reapply at least every two hours and after swimming or sweating, following the package instructions. Water resistance does not remove the need to reapply after water, towel drying or rubbing.56

Less expensive sunscreens with the same ingredients work as well as expensive ones. If sunscreen ingredients irritate sensitive skin, consider a mineral sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Use protection on cloudy days and in winter, too. Sunscreen does not replace shade, protective clothing, sunglasses or a hat that covers the ears and sides of the face.56

What should you change if you shave?

1. 1Wet your skin and hair to soften them before shaving.
2. 2Apply a moisturizing shaving cream and shave in the direction of hair growth.
3. 3Do not stretch the skin taut. If close shaving causes bumps, burns or ingrown hairs, consider a razor with one or two blades.
4. 4Rinse the razor after each swipe and replace the blade after five to seven shaves.
5. 5Apply a gentle moisturizer afterwards. Avoid alcohol based aftershaves, which can dry and irritate skin.

Are serums and longer routines worth it?

Optional ingredients should have a specific job. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps protect against substances called free radicals that damage cells; apply it after cleansing and before moisturizer in the morning. Retinol helps with fine lines, wrinkles, sun damage and uneven pigmentation, and belongs in a nighttime routine because it increases sun sensitivity. Salicylic acid and glycolic acid exfoliate skin for acne care; salicylic acid also reaches deeper into oil glands.1

Useful individual ingredients do not make an elaborate routine necessary for healthy skin. The added benefit of complete routines with many steps remains uncertain, although skincare interest can encourage better sun protection. A routine with more steps has limited evidence of extra benefit, even if it gives the bathroom shelf a more impressive workload. Layering several active ingredients can increase irritation, barrier damage and sensitivity to sunlight. More products are not automatically a better purchase.7

What should a useful review tell you?

Look for a clear connection between the product and its purpose: cleansing, retaining moisture, sun protection or a specific concern. A claim about an ingredient is not a measured result for every finished product. There is no single results timetable for all men's skincare. Exact strengths, prices, textures and improvement times need product specific information, rather than a universal ranking.17

When should you stop experimenting?

Treat burning, itching, redness or a rash after a new product as a reason to stop and reassess, not as proof it is working. Fragrance reactions can appear days or weeks after starting a product. Seek dermatology help for persistent skin concerns that do not improve with your routine. Report new growths or moles changing in size, shape or colour promptly, especially spots that itch or bleed.135