Paula's Choice 1% BHA Sensitive Skin Exfoliant: How to use it

What does BHA do?

BHA means beta hydroxy acid. Salicylic acid is the most common BHA in skincare. Unlike alpha hydroxy acids, which work mainly on surface skin cells, BHAs dissolve in oil and work deeper inside pores. They help remove dead skin and sebum, the oily substance skin produces. That makes salicylic acid useful for blackheads and whiteheads rather than just surface roughness.2

Clogged pores can look larger, and salicylic acid can help unclog them. Pore care is about making pores less noticeable, despite marketing's enthusiasm for making them sound removable. Acne often needs more than salicylic acid alone, so an exfoliant is not a complete treatment plan for every breakout.3

Is it suitable for sensitive skin?

Salicylic acid is usually well tolerated, but it can cause stinging, irritation or burns. Do not apply it to irritated, infected or reddened skin. A lower percentage is not the whole picture: the formula, pH, amount applied and condition of the skin also affect absorption. Use the complete ingredient list and directions on your bottle when deciding whether to add the product.14

How do you use it?

1. 1Cleanse gently with warm water and a gentle cleanser. Avoid scrubbing.
2. 2Apply the exfoliant exactly as the bottle directs. Keep it away from your eyes, mouth and the inside of your nose.
3. 3Wash your hands after application. Do not increase the amount or frequency beyond the directions.
4. 4Use sunscreen every day. Choose broad spectrum, water resistant protection with SPF 30 or higher.

Should you use it every day or only at night?

Use the frequency and time of day printed on your bottle. General salicylic acid advice includes frequent use, but that is not a reason to start this particular exfoliant twice daily. Regular use matters for facial acids, while excessive exfoliation can remove structures that help skin retain water and healthy fats. If use causes irritation, stop rather than increasing the frequency.12

What should you avoid using with it?

Unless your doctor directs otherwise, avoid using salicylic acid on the same area as topical retinoids, benzoyl peroxide or other medicated treatments. Also avoid abrasive cleansers, alcohol containing preparations and products designed to dry or peel the skin. If you already use a prescription topical treatment, ask your prescriber before adding this exfoliant.1

A routine does not need a cast of acids, even if the skincare aisle keeps holding auditions. Choose products for a specific need and a routine you can maintain, rather than adding exfoliants simply because they have different names.2

What results should you expect?

The relevant benefits are fewer clogged pores and help with blackheads and whiteheads. Facial acids take time and regular use to work; there is no precise results deadline to give for this product. Do not chase faster results with extra applications. If acne remains uncontrolled, a dermatologist can help you choose treatment beyond salicylic acid.23

Can you use it during pregnancy or breastfeeding?

Discuss salicylic acid use with your doctor during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Topical salicylic acid is considered unlikely to pose a risk to a developing baby because relatively little is absorbed, but direct pregnancy research is limited. Absorption depends on the formula, strength and amount used, and can be higher on damaged skin.14

When should you stop?

Stop using the exfoliant and contact a doctor for moderate or severe irritation, flushing, or unusually warm and reddened skin. Mild stinging can occur, especially on broken skin, but irritation is not a goal of treatment. If salicylic acid gets into your eyes or another sensitive internal area, rinse immediately with water for 15 minutes.1