Pilgrim face serum: how to choose and use it

What does a face serum do?

A serum is a light liquid designed to deliver concentrated ingredients to the skin. Some formulas focus on one ingredient; others combine several. The ingredients, formulation and stability determine how well a serum works, so the word "serum" alone tells you little about its likely results.1

An antioxidant serum is an optional addition to a morning routine, not a requirement for basic skincare. Start with cleansing, moisturizer and sunscreen rather than treating a serum as a replacement for those steps.23

Which formula should you choose?

Match the ingredients to one main goal, such as dryness, uneven pigmentation or fine lines. Judge a serum by its ingredients and formulation rather than its price, because the price tag is not an active ingredient. These are general ingredient distinctions, not a comparison of confirmed Pilgrim formulas.12

For a vitamin C serum, the formula matters as much as the ingredient name. Stable topical vitamin C can help protect against skin ageing caused by sun exposure and improve fine lines. Many formulations have problems with low concentrations, poor absorption or instability. Ascorbic acid, a common form of vitamin C, is unstable when exposed to oxygen. A vitamin C label claim alone is not enough to judge a particular bottle.5

How do you use Pilgrim face serum?

1. 1Wash your face with a gentle cleanser, then gently pat it dry.
2. 2Apply the serum before moisturizer. Use the amount directed on your particular bottle rather than borrowing a drop count from another serum.
3. 3Apply moisturizer after the serum.
4. 4In the morning, finish skincare with sunscreen. Apply makeup afterward if you use it.

Morning is a useful place for an antioxidant serum such as vitamin C. Vitamin C supports sun protection but does not replace sunscreen. Use a separate facial sunscreen with at least SPF 30. Retinol and retinoid products belong in the evening. Do not assume that every Pilgrim serum needs the same daily frequency simply because the bottles share a brand name.23

For a retinol or retinaldehyde formula, general retinoid guidance is to begin with a minimal amount on alternate nights. Moisturizer can help manage dryness. Excessive use causes redness and peeling, and topical retinoids can increase the risk of sunburn. This starting approach is different from automatically applying an antioxidant serum every morning.34

Can you use it with other treatments?

Use one serum at a time, and introduce new products individually. Combining acid containing serums with other acid products can irritate skin. A vitamin C serum used with a retinol cream, or a retinol serum used alongside a prescription retinoid cream, can also cause irritation. If you already use a prescribed skin treatment, ask your dermatologist about adding the exact serum rather than doubling up on similar ingredients.123

How should you test a new serum?

Test a new serum on a small area before applying it across your face. Apply your normal amount to a quarter sized spot on the underside of your arm or the bend of your elbow twice daily for seven to 10 days. Choose somewhere the product will not be rubbed or washed away, and leave it on for its usual duration. If no redness, itching or swelling develops, you can begin using it.7

Sensitive skin needs particular care with retinol and glycolic acid because both can irritate. Preservatives and fragrance can also trigger allergic contact dermatitis, a skin reaction that causes redness, itching and swelling. If fragrance causes your reactions, choose products labeled "fragrance free"; "unscented" and botanical products can still contain fragrance related ingredients.7

When should you stop using it?

If a serum causes a skin reaction, gently wash it off and stop using it. A cool compress or petroleum jelly can help relieve the skin. See a dermatologist if the reaction is severe and does not improve with those measures, or if you cannot identify what is causing repeated reactions. Medical patch testing can help identify an allergy.7