How do you identify a formula with ceramides?

Common ingredient names include Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP and Ceramide EOS. These are also called ceramide 3, ceramide 6 II and ceramide 1, respectively. Use the full product name when shopping, because 'QV with ceramides' leaves the bottle doing rather a lot of introductions. The routine below is general guidance for a ceramide moisturiser, not directions for a particular QV cream, lotion or cleanser.1

What do ceramides do?

The skin barrier is the outermost layer of skin. It helps prevent water loss and protects against outside irritants and allergens. Ceramides are part of the fats between its cells, helping that protective layer function properly. When the barrier is damaged, more water escapes and skin becomes more vulnerable to irritation. Adding ceramides through skincare is a way to support that barrier, rather than simply wetting the skin's surface.23

What else matters in the moisturiser?

Ceramides work alongside other moisturising ingredients. A formula can combine ingredients that attract water, soften skin and slow moisture loss. These are useful categories to understand when reading a label; they are not a confirmed ingredient list for any particular QV product.1

Ingredient categoryWhat it doesExamples
CeramidesSupport the skin's protective barrier and help retain moisture.Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOS
HumectantsAttract and bind water to skin.Glycerin, hyaluronic acid
OcclusivesHelp prevent moisture from escaping.Petroleum jelly, dimethicone
EmollientsSoften skin and help relieve dryness.Sorbolene, glycerine cream
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How should you use a ceramide moisturiser?

  1. 1Wash with a gentle cleanser. If you have eczema, a cleanser without soap is preferable because it causes less disruption to the skin barrier.
  2. 2Apply the moisturiser while skin is still damp. Aim to apply it within three minutes of washing your face or showering.
  3. 3Follow the exact product's directions for application. For eczema, general guidance is to moisturise at least twice daily and continue even when symptoms are controlled.
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Make moisturising a regular part of your routine, rather than giving the bottle a permanent role as bathroom decor. For eczema, avoid very hot baths and showers, and rinse off after swimming, especially in chlorinated water.5

Who benefits from ceramides?

Ceramide moisturisers are especially relevant to dry skin and eczema, where changes in the skin's fats contribute to poorer barrier function. Ageing skin also replenishes natural ceramides more slowly. For eczema, thick moisturisers or ointments are generally preferred, and perfumes or other ingredients that trigger symptoms should be avoided.145

If you have diabetes and dry skin, choose a fragrance free cream or ointment containing ceramides rather than a lotion. Apply it after bathing or swimming and when skin feels dry or itchy. 'Unscented' is not the same as fragrance free: an unscented product can contain fragrance whose smell has been masked.6

Can a ceramide moisturiser treat eczema?

Moisturisers are a central part of eczema care, and regular use of barrier supporting moisturisers can reduce relapses. Ceramides and cholesterol help restore the arrangement of fats in the outer skin layer. But eczema has no cure, and a flare can need prescribed treatment as well as moisturising. Use prescribed creams or ointments exactly as your doctor directs rather than replacing them with a ceramide product.45

Who should be careful?

Barrier creams are usually well tolerated, but preservatives, fragrances and other ingredients can cause an allergic skin reaction. Some occlusive barrier creams can aggravate acne when used on the face. Most barrier creams should not be applied directly to broken skin. These cautions concern the whole formula, not just whether ceramides appear on the label.3

See a doctor if you or your child has itchy, dry skin that could be eczema. Eczema affected skin is more prone to infection, so suspected infection needs medical assessment rather than another layer of moisturiser. If you have diabetes, seek immediate medical care for a wound that worsens or fails to heal, or skin that is swollen, discoloured, painful or leaking fluid.56

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1What Do Ceramides Do for Your Skin?health.clevelandclinic.org
  2. 2The structure, function, and importance of ceramides in skin and their use as therapeutic agents in skin-care productspubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3Barrier creamdermnetnz.org
  4. 4Barrier function in atopic dermatitisdermnetnz.org
  5. 5Eczema - symptoms, causes and treatmenthealthdirect.gov.au
  6. 6Dermatologist-recommended skin care for people with diabetesaad.org