How to manage razor bumps on men's faces

What do razor bumps look like?

Razor bumps, medically called pseudofolliculitis barbae, are inflamed bumps around ingrown beard hairs. They commonly affect the cheeks, chin and neck. The bumps can itch, and sometimes a trapped hair is visible underneath. On darker skin, bumps can look brown, purple or different in colour from the surrounding skin rather than clearly red. Coarse or curly hair is more likely to curve back into the skin after shaving.12

Not every breakout after shaving is an ingrown hair. Acne involves clogged hair follicles, while infectious folliculitis is an infection in the small pockets where hairs grow. Shaving can damage those follicles and allow germs inside. Folliculitis can look like a sudden acne breakout and can itch or hurt. Razor bumps are an inflammatory reaction to ingrown hairs, although a bacterial infection can develop as well.145

Will growing a beard clear the bumps?

Yes. When you stop shaving, short hairs grow long enough to spring out of the skin, allowing it to heal. You should see fewer bumps within one month, with the bumps gone after three months. Some new bumps can appear initially as hairs from the last shave curve into the skin before growing out. That early appearance does not mean growing a beard has failed.3

If a beard is not an option, clippers offer a way to trim facial hair without shaving it flush with the skin. Leaving at least 1 mm of stubble can reduce ingrown hairs. Do not pluck, scratch, pick or squeeze the bumps; picking can damage skin and lead to infection. Waxing and threading can also cause ingrown hairs, so switching away from a razor does not automatically solve the problem.12

How should you shave if you get razor bumps?

Check the direction your hair grows before shaving, including under your chin and across your neck. Hair can grow in several directions across the beard area, which makes the phrase 'with the grain' sound more organised than the job actually is. Do not assume every patch grows downwards.3

1. 1Wash gently with a mild cleanser and rinse. Avoid harsh scrubbing.
2. 2Soften the beard with warm water. Shave at the end of a shower or hold a warm, wet washcloth against the beard for five minutes.
3. 3Apply moisturizing shaving cream or gel and leave it for one or two minutes. Keep it wet while shaving; rinse and reapply if it dries.
4. 4Use a sharp razor. Shave with hair growth using short strokes and light pressure. Do not stretch the skin or chase a very close finish.
5. 5Use as few strokes as possible and never cover the same area more than twice. Rinse a single blade after each stroke. Skip the pass against the grain, which increases the risk of ingrown hairs.
6. 6Rinse away the shaving cream thoroughly. Hold a cool, wet cloth against the skin for five minutes, then moisturize.
7. 7Dry the razor and store it somewhere dry rather than leaving it in the shower or on a wet sink.

Soap and water alone can dry the skin and cause hairs to catch in the razor.6

A single blade or electric razor is often suggested for razor bumps, but blade count is not the only factor: hair preparation and shaving technique also matter. Replace a single blade after five to seven shaves. Replace any blade sooner if it has rust, cracks or chips, starts tugging, or needs extra pressure. Follow the manufacturer's replacement schedule for electric razor foils and blades.136

Should you shave every day or less often?

Growing the beard out and maintaining a shaved face need different approaches. For general ingrown hair prevention, avoid daily shaving if possible. For men with darker skin who must maintain a shaved face, shaving daily or every two to three days can keep short hairs from becoming long enough to curve back into the skin. Neither approach means shaving closer. If bumps persist despite careful technique, a dermatologist can help choose a schedule and treatment.23

What can you put on the bumps?

Use moisturizer after shaving to reduce dryness and irritation. Stop using an aftershave that burns or stings. A pharmacist can help select products for itching, shaving irritation and gentle exfoliation to release trapped hairs. Exfoliation should not mean aggressively scrubbing inflamed bumps. After shaving, use broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher outdoors, and reapply after swimming or sweating.236

A dermatologist can use medicines to address different parts of the problem. Options include benzoyl peroxide 5% with clindamycin 1% for inflammation, or a brief course of a mild steroid cream. Retinoids and hydroxy acids help reduce excess dead skin around follicles. Antibiotics are used when a bacterial infection needs treatment, not simply because shaving caused bumps. These are treatment options to discuss, rather than a list of products to start together.1

For infectious folliculitis, warm compresses can ease discomfort: apply one for 15 to 20 minutes, at least three to four times daily. When shaving caused that infection, stop shaving, plucking or waxing for 30 days. This infection care is different from a five minute warm compress used to prepare the beard before shaving.5

How can Black men manage razor bumps?

Black men are particularly affected because tightly coiled, coarse hair more readily grows back into the skin. Darker skin also has a greater risk of lasting dark marks and raised scars. Judge severity by the bumps, discomfort and skin changes, not redness alone. If hairs grow in different directions, gently brushing them daily in one direction with a clean, unused, soft toothbrush can help train their growth.13

For persistent razor bumps, Nd:YAG laser treatment can reduce hair growth and inflammatory bumps. Choose a clinician experienced in treating darker skin. Laser treatment permanently reduces beard hair, so discuss whether that fits your grooming, personal or religious preferences before proceeding.1

When should you see a doctor?

• See a doctor if a bump or the surrounding skin is very painful, hot or swollen.
• Get medical help if you also have a high temperature, chills or feel very unwell.
• See a dermatologist if changing your shaving technique does not control the bumps, or dark marks, raised scars or deep grooves are developing.
• If work requires shaving, ask a dermatologist about treatment that allows you to keep shaving while reducing irritation.