Retinol
What should you compare on the label?
| What to compare | Retinol | Pro retinol, if the ingredient is a retinyl ester |
|---|---|---|
| Ingredient | Retinol | An ester such as retinyl palmitate or retinyl propionate |
| Conversion in skin | Retinol becomes retinal, then retinoic acid | The ester first becomes retinol, then follows the same pathway |
| Meaning of a percentage | The amount of retinol, if disclosed | The amount of a different compound, so it is not an equivalent retinol strength |
| Texture and price | Compare the individual cream, lotion or serum | Compare the individual product rather than the vitamin A name |
Compare the ingredient lists rather than awarding points for the word "pro", which is doing an impressive amount of work for three letters. Retinol percentages are not always disclosed on cosmetic packaging. If the ingredient or concentration is unclear, you cannot reliably rank two products by strength from their front labels.3
Which should you choose?
Retinol is an option for uneven tone, pigmentation and texture. Start with the least intense formula you can identify, rather than assuming a pro retinol product is gentler. Neither the conversion pathway nor the product name tells you how irritating the finished formula will be.3
For fine lines, keep expectations modest: cosmetic vitamin A products have limited reliable evidence of benefit, with weak evidence suggesting a small improvement in fine wrinkles. Choose for the concern you want to address, not the most ambitious wording on the box, which has never lacked ambition.2
How do you start using retinol?
- 1Test a small amount on a small area first. Wait a couple of days; do not proceed if the area becomes very red or itchy.
- 2At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your face dry. Avoid scrubbing.
- 3Follow the product's directions. General retinol guidance is a pea sized amount spread in a thin layer over the face, avoiding the eyes, mouth and nose.
- 4Begin every other night for the first couple of weeks, or less often if needed. Increase gradually only as your skin tolerates it.
- 5Finish with moisturizer. During the day, use sunscreen, seek shade and wear clothing that protects your skin from the sun.
These are general retinol steps, not directions for every product sold as pro retinol. Visible changes take several weeks; changes in fine lines or dark spots usually take months. Early redness, peeling or burning are side effects, not a useful measure of strength.1
Who should be careful?
Retinoids can cause dryness, redness, peeling and irritation, and can worsen eczema. Skin allergies, marked dryness or persistent redness are reasons to discuss alternatives with a dermatologist before starting. Irritation can trigger dark marks in darker skin, so increase use cautiously. Stop an application that causes significant irritation rather than pushing through it.34
Avoid retinoids during pregnancy, including retinol and retinyl ester products. If you are trying to become pregnant or already use prescription skincare, tell your obstetrician and dermatologist so they can review your treatment plan.35
Where this answer comes from
- 1Retinol: Cream, Serum, What It Is, Benefits, How To Usemy.clevelandclinic.org
- 2Evidence for the Efficacy of Over-the-counter Vitamin A Cosmetic Products in the Improvement of Facial Skin Aging: A Systematic Reviewpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 3Retinoid or retinol?aad.org
- 4Topical retinoids (vitamin a creams)dermnetnz.org
- 5Dermatologist-approved pregnancy skin careaad.org
