Shea butter soap: benefits, uses and who should be careful

Why is shea butter used in soap?

Shea butter is a creamy fat from the nuts of African shea trees. Its fatty acids lubricate skin and help keep moisture in. That makes shea butter useful in moisturizing products, including soaps. Shea butter itself is solid at room temperature and melts on contact with skin, but a finished soap has its own formula and washing properties.3

What does shea butter do in soap?

Shea butter contributes moisturizing properties, while the cleansing ingredients remove dirt and oil. Surfactants, the ingredients that let oil wash away with water, can also remove components of the skin's protective outer layer. This can leave skin dry or irritated. The whole cleansing formula matters, not just the butter named on the front.14

Expect a cleanser, not the same effect as leaving shea butter on your skin. Added moisturizing ingredients can make washing less drying, but tightness afterwards is a reason to reconsider the cleanser. Soap still needs a moisturizer after washing, even when the wrapper sounds as though it has done both jobs.15

Which type of cleanser should you choose?

A bar is not automatically traditional soap: syndet bars use a different cleansing system. Traditional soap's high pH and cleansing action can be harsher on the skin barrier. A soap substitute can clean skin without foaming, which gives the bubbles less to take credit for.24

How to wash without making dryness worse

1. 1Use cool or lukewarm water rather than very hot water. For handwashing, wash with soap for at least 20 seconds, including between fingers and around nails.
2. 2Rinse thoroughly. If using African black soap, lather it in your hands before applying it rather than rubbing the rough bar directly on your skin.
3. 3Pat dry gently with a clean towel instead of rubbing.
4. 4Apply a thick moisturizer while skin is still slightly damp. For dry hands, useful moisturizer ingredients include petrolatum, mineral oil, ceramides and glycerin.

For dry skin, keep a bath or shower brief; once daily is enough unless your doctor gives different bathing instructions. Frequent washing and very hot water can worsen dryness. For very dry skin caused by excessive bathing, reduce bathing frequency and choose a cream cleanser instead of soap.67

Is shea butter soap good for sensitive skin or eczema?

Shea butter does not cancel out irritating ingredients elsewhere in a soap. For sensitive skin, choose a mild cleanser and avoid known triggers. Fragrance and certain preservatives can cause contact dermatitis, an inflamed rash caused by contact with an irritant or allergen. With eczema, soap itself can cause immediate stinging or itching without an allergy.16

For eczema or persistently itchy, dry skin, use an emollient soap substitute rather than an ordinary soap. Apply a separate emollient after washing to trap moisture. A cream can suit daytime use, while a thicker ointment suits very dry skin and nighttime use; ointments should not be used on weeping eczema.2

Can you use shea butter soap on your face?

Shea butter can be applied to the face, but that does not make every soap containing it a suitable facial cleanser. Shea butter can clog pores and worsen breakouts, so be cautious about choosing it for acne prone skin. People with seborrheic dermatitis, a condition associated with dandruff, should also be careful because the related yeast can grow in shea butter.3

What if you mean African black soap with shea butter?

African black soap can contain shea butter alongside other oils, plant ashes and additional ingredients. Try a small amount on a small area first, especially with dry or sensitive skin. Using it two to three times weekly, with a gentler cleanser on other days, can be preferable to daily use. Avoid combining it with chemical exfoliants because the combination can be too strong.5

When should you stop or seek help?

Stop using a cleanser that causes redness or irritation. Seek medical advice for severe dryness, sore or cracked skin, or a persistent or worsening rash. These problems can need treatment rather than another moisturizing soap. Treat shea butter soap as a cleanser rather than a cure, despite the job titles skincare marketing likes to hand out.15