How should skincare change for summer?

What actually needs to change?

Start by reviewing the products you already use. Heat and humidity can change what your skin needs, particularly the richness of your moisturizer. A cream that suited winter can feel excessive in summer and contribute to breakouts or milia, the small white cysts that can appear with overly rich moisturizer. A seasonal product review is useful; your bathroom shelf does not need a summer collection.14

Judge the change by how your skin looks and feels, rather than assuming warmer weather makes every face oily. Dry skin can feel tight or scaly. Oily skin looks shiny or greasy. Combination skin has both oily and dry areas, which can need different products. Sensitive skin can be dry, oily or combination, so extra shine does not cancel out sensitivity.5

Your summer morning routine

1. 1Wash your face with a gentle cleanser. A foaming cleanser is one summer option, but keep the formula mild, especially if your skin is dry or sensitive.
2. 2Pat your face dry. If you want an antioxidant serum, apply it now. Vitamin C, vitamin E and ferulic acid are options used to address environmental effects such as pollution related dullness and pigmentation.
3. 3Decide whether you need a separate moisturizer. If sunscreen provides enough moisture, you can leave out the extra layer. If you still need moisturizer, choose a lighter one; dry skin still needs regular moisturizing.
4. 4Apply broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher to exposed skin before going outdoors. Choose water resistance for swimming or sweating.

If sunscreen, lotion and makeup together coincide with more breakouts in the heat, try leaving out the separate lotion rather than the sunscreen. Keep other products consistent if they still suit your skin. Summer can justify fewer layers, which is unusually restrained behaviour for a skincare routine.4

Choose sunscreen by the label

Look for three things: broad spectrum protection, SPF 30 or higher, and water resistance. Broad spectrum means protection against both UVA and UVB, the two types of ultraviolet radiation that reach your skin. SPF measures UVB protection. Sunscreen helps prevent sunburn, reduce skin cancer risk and prevent early signs of skin aging.67

Water resistance lasts either 40 or 80 minutes, depending on the product, so read its reapplication directions. A water resistant label describes a limited interval, not a sunscreen's commitment to your entire afternoon.6

On UK sunscreen labels, look for SPF 30 or higher and at least four star UVA protection; a UVA symbol inside a circle indicates the EU standard. Check the expiry information and the open jar symbol showing how many months the product lasts after opening.3

Apply enough, then reapply

1. 1For time outdoors long enough to risk burning, apply sunscreen 30 minutes before leaving and again just before going out.
2. 2Cover all exposed skin, including your face, neck and ears. Protect an exposed scalp too; a hat with a wide brim is preferable.
3. 3Use enough. Around six to eight teaspoons is an adult guide for covering the entire body, not just the face. Applying too thinly reduces protection.
4. 4Reapply every two hours, following the product directions. Reapply straight after swimming, towel drying, sweating or rubbing sunscreen off, even with a water resistant formula.

Check the UV index, a measure of sunburn risk, rather than relying on the temperature. Use daily sunscreen when the index is three or higher. SPF 50 or higher offers very high protection when applied in sufficient amounts, but sunscreen and protective clothing do not block all ultraviolet radiation.7

Seek shade and reduce time outside during peak sunshine hours. Wear clothing that covers more skin, a hat that shades your face and neck, and sunglasses with confirmed UV protection. Darker lenses do not necessarily protect better. Change into dry clothes after swimming because wet fabric is often less protective. Avoid intentional tanning.7

Should you stop retinol in summer?

Summer alone is not a reason to stop retinol or prescribed Retin A. Use them at night because sunlight can inactivate them, and be diligent about sunscreen. Retinoids change the outer layer of skin and can increase sun sensitivity. This is general seasonal guidance, not a change to your prescription directions.14

Check medication containers or ask a pharmacist whether your medicines can cause a reaction in sunlight. Some antibiotics, including doxycycline, tetracycline and minocycline, can do this. If a medicine can cause that reaction, stay out of the sun and protect exposed skin with clothing and sunscreen.2

If you get oily or break out

Sweat mixed with bacteria and skin oils can clog pores. Blot sweat with a clean towel rather than wiping it, which can irritate skin. Wash sweaty hats, headbands, towels and clothes before reusing them. Look for noncomedogenic products, meaning products designed not to clog pores, on areas prone to breakouts. Wash your face or shower after exercise.25

For oily skin, cleansers containing salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide can help unclog pores. Sensitive skin needs a different approach: these ingredients, fragrances and dyes can cause irritation. Favor fragrance free products instead. Having both oily and sensitive skin is a reason to choose carefully, not to use a harsher cleanser.5

If your skin stays dry

Sun exposure, swimming pools and air conditioning can leave skin dry despite humidity. Shower and shampoo with fresh water and a mild cleanser immediately after swimming. Use warm rather than hot water. Apply fragrance free moisturizer within five minutes after bathing to trap water in your skin, and reapply when skin feels dry. Avoid antibacterial or deodorant washes that can dry skin.2

When should you get help?

Do not wait through a worsening rash or persistent irritation for a seasonal routine to work. Contact a dermatologist if a skin problem lingers or worsens. Seek medical help for sunburn if you feel unwell, your skin swells badly or you develop blisters. Stay out of the sun until the redness has gone.23