The Ordinary Glycolic Acid vs Mandelic Acid

What is actually different?

Both acids belong to the alpha hydroxy acid family, or AHAs, which exfoliate by helping remove dead surface skin cells. Concentration alone does not tell you how an acid will behave: the acid type, formula, pH and your skin all matter. A toner is a product format, not a promotion to a higher rank in skincare.123

Which should you choose?

Choose glycolic if you want a liquid exfoliant for texture and dullness and your skin is not sensitive, peeling or compromised. Consider mandelic acid if reducing irritation is the priority, using its slower penetration as a reason to investigate the formula rather than assuming every mandelic product suits sensitive skin.12

Dry, sensitive or acne prone skin generally calls for mild exfoliation, not the most aggressive option available. If you have darker skin or develop dark spots after irritation, burns or breakouts, avoid strong chemical or mechanical exfoliation. Aggressive exfoliation can increase pigmentation, so choosing an acid is also about avoiding a problem, not just targeting one.3

How do you use the glycolic toner?

1. 1Patch test first. Apply a little to clean upper forearm skin, keep dry and rinse after 24 hours. Do not use if redness, burning, itching, blistering or irritation occurs.
2. 2Start two to three evenings a week. Apply to the face and neck with fingers or a cotton pad, avoiding the eyes. Leave it on.
3. 3Follow with moisturiser. Exfoliation can dry the skin, and moisturiser helps retain moisture.
4. 4Increase frequency only as tolerated, up to the brand's once daily directions.
5. 5Use sunscreen, protective clothing and limited sun exposure during use and for a week afterwards.

Can you use both or add other actives?

Do not combine the glycolic toner with mandelic acid, other direct acids or retinoids in the same routine. Retinol, prescription retinoid creams and benzoyl peroxide can make skin more sensitive or cause peeling; adding exfoliation can worsen dryness or cause breakouts. During isotretinoin treatment, dryness and irritation are common, so discuss adding an exfoliant with your dermatologist before starting.134

What should you expect, and when should you stop?

The glycolic toner targets smoother texture and a brighter, more even appearance with regular use. The useful result is improved texture and tone, not a bathroom shelf that could host an acid convention. AHAs also have moisture holding properties, but an exfoliating acid is not a replacement for moisturiser, which helps maintain the skin barrier.156

Never exfoliate sunburned skin or open cuts. If the glycolic toner causes eye or skin irritation, rinse thoroughly, stop and consult a physician. If you are unsure whether exfoliation is suitable for your skin, a dermatologist can help you choose a method and schedule.13