The Ordinary Niacinamide 5%: benefits and how to use it

What does 5% niacinamide do?

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, also called nicotinamide. Applied to skin, it can help with hyperpigmentation, meaning areas of darker colour, and signs of skin aging. Benefits have been seen with niacinamide alone and combined with other active ingredients. Its exact biological mechanism remains uncertain.2

Niacinamide may strengthen the skin barrier, which retains moisture and keeps irritants out. It also calms inflammation and redness. Its potential to regulate oil production makes it relevant to shiny skin as well as dryness.1

Niacinamide may make pores look less noticeable, but nothing has been proven to reduce their actual size. Less visible pores and smaller pores are different promises, although skincare marketing sometimes files them under the same heading.1

How do you use niacinamide?

General ingredient guidance allows once or twice daily use after gentle cleansing. Application after moisturizer or mixing with moisturizer are options; follow your product's directions for its application order.1

What can you pair it with?

General pairings include retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid and ceramide moisturizers. Avoid stacking niacinamide products.1

Is 5% suitable for sensitive skin?

Topical niacinamide is generally well tolerated. Sensitive skin should start slowly with a low concentration. A suggested patch test uses a small amount on the forearm with a 24 hour wait. Rare reactions include itching, mild burning, redness and allergy.12

Is 5% an unusually strong concentration?

Most skincare products contain 5% niacinamide or less, although concentrations vary.1

Why is niacinamide used for skin aging?

Skin aging involves changes below the surface as well as changes in colour. Collagen and elastin, proteins that support skin structure and elasticity, decrease with both natural aging and aging caused by sun exposure. Niacinamide has antioxidant and anti inflammatory activity and supports the skin barrier and the material surrounding skin cells. These are reasons for its use in cosmetic formulas, not a reason to expect every visible sign of aging to disappear.2

Are niacinamide, nicotinamide and niacin the same?

Niacinamide and nicotinamide are two names for the same substance. Niacin is nicotinic acid, a different form of vitamin B3. The two forms have the same vitamin activity but different effects and side effects. Unlike nicotinic acid, nicotinamide does not cause flushing. That distinction does not remove the possibility of a reaction to a topical niacinamide product.12

Should you add a niacinamide face mask?

Niacinamide is also used in face masks to help reduce shine and acne. A mask is optional: masks can boost hydration or address a specific concern, but they do not replace a daily routine or treatment for acne or eczema. If your routine already includes niacinamide, avoid adding a mask simply to repeat the ingredient. Be particularly careful about duplicating retinol or exfoliating acids in a mask, because extra exposure can cause dryness and irritation.3

How should you use a niacinamide mask?

1. 1Test the new mask on small areas of skin first.
2. 2Apply gently with your fingertips and follow the label's application time and frequency.
3. 3Wash the mask off immediately if you feel itching, burning or stinging.
4. 4Apply moisturizer after washing off the mask, and continue cleansing and sun protection.

See a dermatologist if your skin feels worse after using a mask. Avoid masks with fragrance, essential oils or rubbing alcohol, and avoid strong exfoliating ingredients if your skin is sensitive.3

Does niacinamide replace sunscreen?

No. Keep sun protection in your routine. Choose SPF 30 or higher for UVB protection and look for UVA protection too. Use clothing and shade alongside sunscreen, apply plenty before going outside, and reapply during the day and after swimming or towel drying. Niacinamide's vitamin name does not give sunscreen permission to leave the routine.4