What does petroleum jelly with cocoa butter do?

Petroleum jelly is an occlusive: it forms a protective layer that reduces water escaping from the skin's surface. Cocoa butter contains fatty acids that help hold water in the skin. These are moisturizing benefits, useful for dryness and roughness. Cocoa butter comes from cacao beans; pure cocoa butter is solid at room temperature and melts against warm skin. Products containing cocoa butter generally spread more easily and feel less oily or tacky than the pure butter.34

Should you choose a jelly, cream or lotion?

TextureWhat to expectWhere it fits
Jelly or ointmentThe most protective, greasy option, with a longer lasting effect.Dry, thick or scaly patches.
CreamLighter and absorbed more quickly than an ointment, but needs more frequent application.Moisturizing larger areas.
LotionLess occlusive than a cream or ointment.Mild dryness and hairy areas.
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For very dry skin, a cream or ointment is generally more effective than a lotion. Ointments offer a longer lasting protective layer, with a greasy finish that has not applied for a disappearing act. Pick the texture you find comfortable enough to use regularly; a moisturizer left in the cupboard has a remarkably uneventful career.35

How do you apply it?

For dry skin, use this general moisturizing sequence.

  1. 1Try a cocoa butter product on a small area first to check for an allergic reaction.
  2. 2Keep your shower or bath to five to ten minutes and use warm water. Use a gentle cleanser where needed rather than covering your skin in thick lather.
  3. 3Gently pat your skin with a towel, leaving it slightly damp. Do not rub dry, irritated skin.
  4. 4Apply the moisturizer immediately and gently massage it into the dry areas. Petroleum jelly works best when applied to damp skin.
  5. 5Reapply after washing your hands and whenever your skin feels dry.
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There is no special morning or evening requirement for general moisturizing. Applying after bathing helps retain the water that has entered the skin, and you can apply at other times too. Mild dryness can need only a light moisturizer at night; very dry skin can need a greasy moisturizer every couple of hours. Moisturizer benefits are greatest during the first six hours after application, so regular use two to three times daily can be useful. Match the frequency to dryness rather than treating one application as permanent protection.3

Can you use it on your face or lips?

Avoid petroleum jelly on your face if you are prone to acne, because it can cause breakouts in some people. Cocoa butter can also cause acne to flare. Dry body patches are therefore a more sensible use than applying a heavy layer across an acne prone face. General petroleum jelly advice includes use on dry lips and a small amount on dry, flaky eyelids. For a cocoa butter formula, choose a product intended for the area you want to moisturize rather than treating every body moisturizer as a lip balm.14

What if your skin is sensitive?

Choose a gentle product labeled "fragrance free" for dry, sensitive skin. "Unscented" is not the same: products can contain chemicals that hide other ingredients' odors and irritate sensitive skin. Stop a product that causes an allergic rash. Tell a dermatologist if moisturizers cause burning, stinging or irritation, or if dryness persists despite regular moisturizing. Cocoa butter has little research supporting its use for eczema or psoriasis, so do not use the ingredient name as a substitute for a treatment plan.345

Does cocoa butter help stretch marks or scars?

Cocoa butter has not been shown to prevent stretch marks or reduce their appearance. Stretch marks are scars that develop when skin stretches or shrinks quickly and its collagen and elastin break. Moisturizing can keep the surrounding skin comfortable, but there is no cocoa butter treatment timeline for making the marks disappear. Stretch marks often become less prominent over time, fading from their initial red or purple color. Cocoa butter also lacks solid evidence for reducing other scars. If changing their appearance is your goal, discuss treatment options with a dermatologist rather than adding more butter.24

What about pregnancy?

Do not rely on cocoa butter to prevent pregnancy stretch marks. Discuss botanical creams with your doctor before using them during pregnancy, because some are not well studied. Tretinoin is an option used for early stretch marks, but it is not safe during pregnancy. Moisturizing and treating stretch marks are separate decisions; a comfortable moisturizer does not need to double as a scar treatment.2

Where this answer comes from

  1. 15 ways to use petroleum jelly for skin careaad.org
  2. 2Does Cocoa Butter Help With Stretch Marks?health.clevelandclinic.org
  3. 3Emollients and Moisturizers (Moisturisers)dermnetnz.org
  4. 4Cocoa Butter: What It Is, Benefits & Useshealth.clevelandclinic.org
  5. 5Dermatologists' top tips for relieving dry skinaad.org