What do exfoliants do?

How do different exfoliants work?

Which type suits your skin?

For rough texture, lactic acid is a gentler AHA that also moisturizes. Salicylic acid helps dissolve sebum, the oil your skin produces, making it useful for blackheads and whiteheads. Glycolic acid is a stronger exfoliant that can improve discoloration and fine lines, but it needs a slower introduction because it can irritate.2

Dry, sensitive or acne prone skin generally needs a milder approach; mechanical exfoliation can be too irritating. Oily, thicker skin can tolerate stronger methods. Avoid aggressive exfoliation if you have darker skin or develop dark marks after skin injuries, because it can increase pigmentation.1

How should you exfoliate at home?

1. 1Check your existing routine. Prescription retinoids, retinol and benzoyl peroxide can make skin more sensitive or cause peeling; adding exfoliation can worsen dryness or breakouts.
2. 2Apply gently. For a scrub or rinse off exfoliator, use small circular motions for about 30 seconds, then rinse with lukewarm water. Use short, light strokes with a brush or sponge.
3. 3Apply moisturizer immediately afterward. Exfoliation can dry the skin.
4. 4Use SPF 30 or higher sunscreen every day when using facial acids, because they increase susceptibility to sun damage.

How often, and when will you see a difference?

There is no single schedule for every exfoliant. Frequency depends on your skin and the method; stronger exfoliation generally needs to happen less often. For glycolic acid, start once or twice a week at night and increase only if your skin tolerates it. Facial acids take time and regular use to improve skin's appearance.12

Stop exfoliating if your skin becomes red or irritated. Never exfoliate sunburned skin or areas with open cuts or wounds. If you cannot work out which method suits your skin, a dermatologist can help decide whether exfoliation is beneficial.1

Are chemical peels and microdermabrasion the same thing?

Both exfoliate, but professional treatments are different from a routine scrub or acid product. Chemical peels resurface skin and can improve roughness, discoloration and fine lines. Buy and use chemical peels only under a licensed, trained provider's supervision: some home peels have caused serious injuries. Superficial peels can cause redness and swelling that usually settle within 48 hours; deeper peels involve more recovery.45

Microdermabrasion uses an instrument to remove the uppermost skin layer. Skin can feel softer and smoother after the first treatment, though most people need several treatments for their desired result. Microdermabrasion does not stop skin cells aging and dying, so the word rejuvenation still has to obey biology. Contact the treating provider for bleeding, blistering or swelling lasting longer than a day or two.6