What do peptides do for skin?

What peptides are meant to do

Amino acids join to form peptides, and peptides combine to make proteins, including collagen. Collagen and elastin help support skin structure and flexibility, so peptide products are often positioned around firmness, lines or elasticity. The idea is that some peptides can encourage skin to make or maintain these proteins; peptides are not collagen itself. A peptide can be one building block in a larger protein, not a tiny collagen contractor arriving with tools.13

What the peptide names mean

Cosmetic peptides are grouped by their proposed mechanism. The amino acid sequence matters, so the word peptide covers a family of ingredients rather than one identical effect.1

• Signal peptides
• Carrier peptides
• Neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides
• Enzyme inhibitor peptides

Do peptides in skincare work?

Small sets of topical studies report possible improvements in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, elasticity, skin texture and skin thickness.2

The evidence remains sparse, and getting a peptide through the skin barrier is a major hurdle to its effect. Topical delivery is the part the ingredient list cannot solve by typography.12

Should you add a peptide product?

Treat peptides as an optional extra, not a requirement for a useful routine. Cleansing, moisturizing and reducing sun exposure are the basics; the rest is optional. For wrinkles and aging skin, hyaluronic acid and retinoids are other options that tend to cost less.3

Look at the whole formula rather than the word peptide on the front: having peptides in a product does not show that the formula will make them effective. A higher price may buy a more elegant formula, but it does not come with a receipt for better skin.3