Allantoin is a naturally occurring compound made by the body and found in plants such as comfrey; cosmetic allantoin is more likely to be made synthetically. It appears in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, acne care products, lip products and ointments, so it is not one single kind of product. Allantoin tends to be the quiet line in an ingredient list, while the front of the bottle gets the louder type.1

How allantoin helps skin

Allantoin is a humectant, which means it helps bring water from lower skin levels toward the surface and absorb water from the air. By increasing the skin's water content, it helps moisturize and can reduce flakiness, dry patches and cracks.1

Allantoin also has a keratolytic effect. Keratolytic means it softens proteins in the skin and helps remove dead cells, which can leave rough or scaly areas feeling smoother. This is a surface softening effect, not a special power that changes what the rest of a formula does.1

Moisturized skin can look more flexible and plump, which can soften the appearance of fine lines and dullness. That is why allantoin appears in anti aging products, though the practical effect described here is moisture and appearance. In anti aging marketing, hydration gets promoted to a grander job title than 'help skin look less dry.'1

What results to expect

Expect allantoin to support hydration and surface smoothness rather than produce a timed transformation. Skin care products often need some time to build up and create visible results; give a new product a few weeks and add only one new product at a time so you can tell how your skin responds.1

How to use allantoin

There is no single schedule for every product type that contains allantoin. Use the directions for the specific moisturizer, serum, cleanser or ointment rather than copying a schedule from another format. For example, Terrasil Skin Repair is a 0.5% allantoin skin protectant ointment labeled for minor cuts, scrapes and burns, and for chapped or cracked skin. Its directions are to wash and dry the affected skin, apply an ample amount, bandage when appropriate, and repeat 1 to 3 times daily until the skin improves. Those directions belong to that ointment, not every allantoin product. The schedule is specific enough to be useful and too specific to become universal skin care law.2

Who should be careful

Allantoin is used in products intended for sensitive skin and is not known to irritate skin on its own. A formula that combines it with other exfoliating ingredients can still cause irritation or redness, so the whole formula matters more than one reassuring ingredient name.1

When to stop and ask a doctor

For Terrasil Skin Repair specifically, the label says to stop use and ask a doctor if the condition worsens, symptoms last more than 7 days, or symptoms clear and return within a few days. It also says not to use that ointment on deep or puncture wounds, animal bites or serious burns. These instructions apply to that product, not to every cosmetic containing allantoin.2

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Facebookhealth.clevelandclinic.org
  2. 2DailyMed - TERRASIL SKIN REPAIR- allantoin ointmentdailymed.nlm.nih.gov