What does bisabolol do for skin?

What is bisabolol?

Alpha bisabolol, also called levomenol, is a compound found naturally in German chamomile and several other plants. The alpha form accounts for most of the biological activity investigated. In cosmetics, bisabolol is used as a skin conditioning ingredient because of its soothing effects. Bisabolol has a supporting role in a formula, even when the product description gives it top billing.1

What benefits can you expect?

The clearest reason to include bisabolol in skincare is soothing support. Experimental work has found that alpha bisabolol inhibits enzymes involved in producing inflammatory signals. That gives its cosmetic use a biological basis, but much of the broader research involves cells or animals rather than people using a finished skincare product. There is no established universal percentage or time to visible improvement to use as a shopping rule.12

Does bisabolol calm redness?

Bisabolol may help with redness associated with inflammation, but the extent of that benefit in everyday skincare is not settled. Redness is one sign of inflammation, alongside swelling, itching, heat and pain. Human research has found reduced redness after ultraviolet exposure with creams containing chamomile flower extract. Those creams contain a mixture of plant compounds, so their results should not be treated as results for bisabolol alone. A chamomile cream and a product containing isolated bisabolol are different choices.2

Is bisabolol good for sensitive skin?

Bisabolol is a reasonable ingredient to consider in a soothing product for sensitive skin. The complete formula still matters: preservatives, fragrance or other ingredients can cause a reaction even when a product includes a soothing ingredient. Choose the whole product rather than one highlighted ingredient, which should not have to do all the bottle's public relations. If fragrance causes your skin to react, choose products labelled "fragrance free"; "unscented" products and botanical formulas can still contain fragrance related ingredients.13

Can bisabolol irritate skin?

A bisabolol product can still irritate your skin or trigger an allergy; a soothing ingredient does not make the finished formula reaction proof. Chamomile itself has caused allergic contact dermatitis, an itchy skin reaction to something touching the skin. Chamomile creams and essential oils have caused reactions, including worsening eczema. That is a reason to distinguish chamomile extract from isolated bisabolol, not to assume that everyone allergic to chamomile is allergic to bisabolol.34

If you have a diagnosed allergy to the Asteraceae plant family, which includes chamomile, avoid cosmetics containing the plant extracts responsible for your allergy. Related plants can cause cross reactions. A dermatologist can use medical patch testing to identify the relevant allergens; testing a product at home is not the same as diagnosing a plant allergy.5

How do you use bisabolol in skincare?

Use the finished product's directions for the amount, frequency and application time. Bisabolol itself does not supply a universal morning or evening schedule, layering order or concentration to aim for. Before adding a new product, use this general skincare testing sequence.3

1. 1Apply your normal amount to a spot about the size of a quarter on the underside of your arm or inside your elbow, twice daily for seven to 10 days.
2. 2Leave the product on for its usual application time. For a cleanser, leave it on for five minutes or for the time specified in its instructions, then rinse.
3. 3If no redness, itching or swelling develops after seven to 10 days, begin using the product as directed.
4. 4If a reaction develops, gently wash the product off and do not use it again. A cool compress or petroleum jelly can help relieve the reaction.

What should make you stop using it?

Stop using a product that causes burning, stinging, itching, swelling, blistering or new irritated patches. Contact dermatitis can appear immediately or develop over the following hours or days, so an uneventful first application is not enough to judge tolerance. On lighter skin, affected areas can look red; on darker skin, they can look dark brown, purple or grey.67

See a doctor if symptoms persist, recur or are severe. Seek immediate medical advice for a severe reaction or possible infection, especially rapidly worsening symptoms, discharge, increasing pain, feeling generally unwell, or feeling hot, cold or shivery. If the cause keeps escaping you, medical patch testing can help identify what to avoid.367