What is vitamin F in skincare?

Vitamin F is not actually a vitamin. The name refers to two essential fatty acids: alpha linolenic acid, or ALA, and linoleic acid, or LA. ALA is an omega 3 fat, while LA is an omega 6 fat. Essential means your body needs these fats and must obtain them through your diet.1

Scientists initially mistook these fats for a vitamin in the 1920s. The name survived the correction, which is a remarkably durable piece of paperwork.1

In skincare, vitamin F appears in serums, oils and creams. Linoleic acid is also found in botanical oils such as safflower, sunflower, soybean and sesame oils. The skin barrier benefits discussed here centre on linoleic acid, one part of vitamin F.13

Does vitamin F help the skin barrier?

Yes. Linoleic acid has an essential role in the structure and function of the skin's outer barrier. That outer layer, called the stratum corneum, consists of cells surrounded by a matrix of lipids, or fats. The arrangement helps control how much water leaves the skin and how substances from outside enter it.24

Skin uses linoleic acid to make complex lipids, including certain ceramides. Ceramides are fats that help maintain the protective barrier. One linoleic acid containing ceramide has a critical role in limiting water loss. This gives linoleic acid a structural role in skin, not just a place in a moisturizing formula.3

Is vitamin F good for dry skin?

Yes, vitamin F is a reasonable ingredient to consider in a moisturizer for dry skin. Linoleic acid is used in moisturizers for its moisturizing and barrier repair properties. Keeping water in the skin matters particularly in atopic dermatitis, a form of eczema associated with increased water loss and very dry skin.34

The rest of the moisturizer matters too. Emollients soften and smooth skin, humectants such as glycerol and urea hold water, and occlusive ingredients such as petrolatum slow evaporation. A linoleic acid cream can combine these jobs, so choosing a dry skin product means looking beyond vitamin F alone.4

What can you expect, and how long does it take?

In a small clinical trial, 20 people with atopic dermatitis used a cream containing 1.5% linoleic acid on affected areas two to three times daily for four weeks. At four weeks, the treated skin had better hydration, less water loss, less redness and reduced local eczema severity compared with the starting measurements.4

Those results apply to that cream and that group of patients. For an everyday vitamin F product, a reliable time to improvement and an ideal concentration remain unsettled. The trial's application schedule is not a universal instruction for every serum, oil or cream, and there is no established morning versus evening rule here.4

Does vitamin F help acne or wrinkles?

Vitamin F's moisturizing effects may help with dryness, acne and wrinkles, but its practical role is clearer for hydration and barrier support. Lower linoleic acid levels have been found in skin surface lipids from people with acne; the reasons for that difference remain unclear. An association with acne is not a reason to replace acne treatment with a facial oil.13

Can vitamin F irritate skin?

Vitamin F is not a promise that a finished product will suit sensitive skin. A dependable irritation rate for topical vitamin F remains unknown. The eczema trial excluded people with documented allergies to the cream's ingredients, as well as pregnant and breastfeeding participants. Pregnancy safety, compatibility with prescription skincare and specific stopping rules therefore need to be considered for the actual product rather than assumed from the ingredient name.4

Do you need a vitamin F supplement for your skin?

For a healthy adult, food is the first choice for meeting nutrient needs, so dinner does not need a beauty department. Vitamin F occurs naturally in foods including walnuts, flaxseed, chia seeds, soybeans and several plant oils. Supplements are a separate decision from using a moisturizer.15

If a doctor identifies a deficiency or another reason for supplementation, ask which product and dose to use. Check with a healthcare provider or pharmacist before adding a supplement if you take medicines. High doses of omega 3 supplements can cause bleeding problems with warfarin or other anticoagulants, and supplements can also cause allergic reactions or stomach upset.15

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Vitamin F: Sources, Uses & Benefitsmy.clevelandclinic.org
  2. 2Skin barrier functiondermnetnz.org
  3. 3The Role of Linoleic Acid in Skin and Hair Health: A Reviewpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4Comparison of linoleic acid-containing water-in-oil emulsion with urea-containing water-in-oil emulsion in the treatment of atopic dermatitis: a randomized clinpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5Should I take vitamins or supplements for my skin?aad.org