What percentage of retinol should you use?

What retinol percentage should I use?

If you are new to retinol, choose the lowest available formulation and start every other night, building up slowly. If you already use retinol comfortably, increase frequency gradually within the product's directions rather than immediately replacing it with something stronger. Irritation is a reason to reconsider the routine, not a reason to increase strength.12

Retinol percentages do not have to appear on every over the counter label. Some labels omit the retinol percentage, so the packaging can be very talkative without answering the useful question. If the strength is unclear, a dermatologist can help you choose a suitable starting product.1

Retinol and prescription retinoids are not interchangeable

Retinoids are the vitamin A family; retinol is one member. Retinol, retinal and tretinoin are different ingredients, so their percentages are not a like for like strength comparison. Skin converts retinol through retinal into active retinoic acid, also called tretinoin. Tretinoin has the strongest clinical evidence for treating signs of skin aging, while cosmetic retinol has less robust clinical evidence. Prescription strength is not necessary for most people seeking an aging skincare routine.134

How to start using retinol

1. 1Test a little on a small area first. Wait a couple of days; do not add retinol to your routine if the area becomes very red or itchy.
2. 2At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your skin dry. Do not scrub.
3. 3Follow the package directions. General guidance is a thin layer over the face, using about a pea sized amount and avoiding the eyes, mouth and nose.
4. 4Begin every other night for the first couple of weeks. A slower start, once every few days, is another option when introducing retinol.
5. 5Finish with a moisturizer labeled noncomedogenic, meaning it is formulated not to clog pores. Increase use gradually as your skin adjusts, following the product's directions.

If retinol irritates your skin, applying a thin layer of moisturizer first can provide a buffer while allowing retinol to work. A retinol serum does not need a retinol moisturizer alongside it, even if the two bottles look very pleased to be a set. Choose products that complement one another rather than duplicating the same active ingredient.4

Use retinol at night and protect your skin during the day because retinoids increase sun sensitivity. Apply broad spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily, seek shade and cover exposed skin with clothing. Sensitive skin can suit a mineral sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.14

How long should you wait before judging results?

Visible improvement takes several weeks, with about three months of regular use a useful checkpoint. Fine lines and wrinkles usually take several months to change. Acne can still appear during the first couple of months, and skin can initially look worse. Early lack of visible results alone is not a reason to jump to a stronger formula.24

Who should be careful with retinol?

Dryness, redness, peeling, itching and burning are possible side effects. Retinoids can worsen eczema through their drying effect. Skin allergies, substantial dryness or existing redness and inflammation are reasons to discuss alternatives with a dermatologist before starting. In darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks, so introduce retinol slowly and use moisturizer. See a dermatologist before trying a retinoid for moderate or severe acne scarring or acne linked to hormonal changes. Do not use retinol during pregnancy; ask your healthcare provider before using it while breastfeeding.125