What to use for dull, dry skin

Why dry skin can look dull

Dry skin lacks water in its outer layer. Low humidity, wind and washing with hot water and soap can increase moisture loss or remove the oils that help protect skin. Low production of sebum, the skin's natural oil, can also leave skin looking dull and feeling tight. Moisturizing addresses that dryness; adding more products without changing harsh cleansing habits does not address the same problem.13

Choose a cleanser that does not strip your skin

Look for a facial cleanser labelled gentle and moisturizing. A cleanser should leave moisture behind rather than take it away, which is a modest ambition for something sold to wash your face. Avoid drying alcohol in cleansers, and choose fragrance free products if your skin is sensitive. Ordinary soap and shower gel can worsen dryness. A suitable emollient wash or soap substitute is another option for dry, itchy skin; these can clean without producing normal soap's foam.124

What should your moisturizer contain?

Look for ingredients that attract water and ingredients that help keep it in the skin. Humectants draw moisture into the outer layer; glycerin and hyaluronic acid are useful examples. Occlusives form a layer that slows water loss; petrolatum and mineral oil are options used for dry skin. Ceramides are also used in moisturizers selected to help restore the skin's outer layer. Hyaluronic acid moisturizes rather than exfoliates, despite sharing the word acid with exfoliating ingredients.2356

A cream is a useful starting point when a light lotion leaves skin dry. In colder, drier weather, creams or balms can offer more protection than lighter lotions. An expensive jar is not necessarily more effective than a cheaper one, even if it looks qualified to chair a meeting. Choose the texture that matches the degree of dryness rather than paying extra for the packaging.2

How to apply your routine

1. 1Cleanse gently. Use warm rather than hot water, avoid scrubbing, and pat skin dry.
2. 2Apply an optional toner after cleansing. Gently swipe or mist it over the face without rinsing, before moisturizer.
3. 3Apply moisturizer promptly after washing. Smooth an emollient gently over skin rather than rubbing it in, following the direction of hair growth.
4. 4In the morning, apply sunscreen over moisturizer. Choose broad spectrum, water resistant protection with SPF 30 or higher.
5. 5At night, moisturize again. Use an ointment on very dry areas if a cream is not enough.

Moisturize morning and night, and reapply an emollient whenever skin feels dry or tight. More intensive emollient care can involve three or four applications daily. If dryness affects your body too, apply cream or ointment while skin is still damp after bathing to trap existing moisture. Reduce bathing if frequent washing is worsening dryness. Sunscreen belongs in the routine throughout the year, including winter, on skin not covered by clothing.234

Should you exfoliate dull, dry skin?

Gentle exfoliation is an option for dullness, but it should not displace moisturizing. Some lactic acid moisturizers can exfoliate flaky skin while maintaining hydration. Urea and lactic acid preparations often sting on scratched, cracked or inflamed skin, so they are not the first choice for those areas. For skin that is both dry and sensitive, focus on gentle, fragrance free care rather than adding harsh exfoliating ingredients.123

Cold weather is a reason to reduce the frequency or concentration of glycolic acid, salicylic acid or retinol if your routine is becoming too drying. Do not assume a stronger exfoliant will solve more dullness. For ageing skin with dryness and uneven pigmentation, regularly used topical treatments such as vitamin C or alpha hydroxy acids have a longer term role; moisturizers still help the dry, flaky surface.27

Do you need a toner or serum?

The basic routine can be cleansing, moisturizing and sunscreen, without a separate serum. Toner can be an extra step rather than the centre of the routine, despite having a job title that sounds compulsory. A hydrating toner containing glycerin or hyaluronic acid adds moisture. For dullness, options include toners containing alpha hydroxy acids, niacinamide or licorice root extract. These are different choices, not a shopping list to combine.15

A hydrating toner can be used once or twice daily. For a toner with strong acids or potentially irritating actives, start every other day and adjust to tolerance. Toner changes can take six weeks to three months and can be subtle. That timetable is for toner, not a deadline for all dry skin to heal.5

Adjust for sensitive skin and prescriptions

Sensitive skin can also be dry or combination. Avoid fragrances, dyes and harsh ingredients if products cause redness, itching or burning. If only your cheeks are dry while your forehead, nose and chin are oily, treat the areas differently rather than putting the richest texture everywhere. When using a steroid cream or another treatment for a skin condition, leave 20 to 30 minutes between that treatment and an emollient, and ask your doctor which goes first.14

When dry skin needs medical care

Stop an exfoliating product if it causes irritation. Seek advice from a pharmacist or doctor for persistent burning or stinging from an emollient, inflamed hair follicles or a worsening facial rash. Excessively dry, painful or persistently itchy skin deserves assessment. Eczema, psoriasis and other conditions can cause severe dryness and need treatment beyond a cosmetic routine. A dermatologist can select a moisturizer and address the cause; some people need a prescription moisturizer.146

Use a clean spoon or spatula to take emollient from a tub. Keep emollients and fabrics carrying their residue away from flames and cigarettes, because contaminated clothing and bedding can catch fire easily. Washing does not completely remove that risk.4