When to use glycolic acid in your skincare routine

How do you use glycolic acid in your skincare routine?

1. 1Cleanse with a gentle facial cleanser. Avoid cleansers with microbeads, which can cause irritation and inflammation.
2. 2Apply your separate glycolic acid exfoliant as directed. Follow the product's amount and application instructions rather than treating every glycolic formula alike.
3. 3Apply moisturizer afterwards. Choose a moisturizer that fits your skin type and provides enough hydration.
4. 4In the morning, finish with sunscreen. Use SPF 30 or higher daily, including winter, and SPF 50 or higher for time outdoors in the sun.

How often should you use glycolic acid?

General guidance for alpha hydroxy acids is to begin every other day, then gradually work towards daily use if tolerated. Follow a product's directions if they call for less frequent use. For a starting product, keep the AHA concentration no higher than 10% to 15%; that is a ceiling, not a strength you need to reach.2

Using too much chemical exfoliant or applying it more often than directed can leave skin raw and irritated. If skin becomes too dry or irritated, stop the exfoliant for a few days rather than increasing the frequency. If skin problems persist or you are unsure which products suit your skin, see a dermatologist.14

What does glycolic acid do?

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA. It exfoliates the skin and can help smooth fine wrinkles, clear pores and support collagen production. Collagen is a protein that strengthens connective tissue. Glycolic acid also helps hydrate skin, so exfoliation and moisture are not automatically opposites.2

Glycolic acid can act as a humectant, an ingredient that increases the outer skin layer's ability to hold water, while also helping shed surface cells. A chemical exfoliant can still dry or irritate skin during use, which is why moisturizer belongs after a separate exfoliating treatment.45

When should you pause glycolic acid?

Avoid glycolic acid on the day of a medical aesthetic procedure and during the early healing phase. Acids can irritate healing skin and increase the risk of dark marks after inflammation, particularly in darker skin. Get your treating clinician's restart instructions rather than applying your usual routine to recovering skin.36

A professional peel is a treatment, not a toner with a more ambitious job title. Glycolic peels use different strengths, and some are offered monthly. Superficial peels can cause redness and occasional swelling that usually settle within 48 hours; improvement often becomes clearer after repeated treatments. Follow the clinician's aftercare instructions, moisturize, protect treated skin from the sun and report problems promptly.37

When should you use lactic acid in your skincare routine?

Lactic acid is another AHA used for exfoliation and moisturizing. A separate lactic acid exfoliant fits between cleansing and moisturizer; a moisturizing formula serves a different role. Use the same gradual introduction and morning sunscreen approach. Lactic acid preparations can sting on scratched, cracked or inflamed skin.125

How do you use salicylic acid in your skincare routine?

Follow the salicylic acid product's directions and apply moisturizer after a separate chemical exfoliant. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that removes dead skin and penetrates oily follicle openings, making it useful for acne. It can be less irritating than AHAs, but that is not a reason to exceed its directions.24