Why does niacinamide burn?

Why does niacinamide burn my face?

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 and is generally gentle on skin. Rare side effects include mild burning, itching, redness and allergy. Your skin barrier is the protective outer layer that holds moisture in and helps keep irritants out. When that barrier is damaged, skin becomes drier and more sensitive. A product applied to already irritated skin can therefore be harder to tolerate.1

The reaction is to the finished product, so niacinamide is not automatically the culprit. Fragrances and preservatives are common causes of cosmetic allergy, and any constituent of a cosmetic can cause a contact reaction. The product name does not identify the cause of a reaction, however conveniently it supplies a suspect. An allergy can develop even after years of using the same cosmetic without problems.2

Timing alone cannot tell you whether the reaction is irritation or allergy. Strong irritants can cause symptoms within minutes or hours; weaker irritants can cause symptoms after days or weeks of repeated use. Allergic contact dermatitis, an itchy inflammatory skin reaction to an allergen, usually develops more than 12 hours after contact and peaks around 48 hours. Redness can be less obvious on darker skin, so pay attention to itching, swelling and discomfort too.2

What should you do when it burns?

1. 1Stop applying the cosmetic product. Burning, stinging and tingling are signs of irritation, not a reason to add more.
2. 2Gently wash the product off as soon as possible.
3. 3Use a cool compress or petroleum jelly if needed to relieve the reaction.
4. 4Do not use the product again after a skin reaction. If symptoms are severe and these measures do not relieve them, see a dermatologist.

Seek urgent medical help for difficulty breathing or swelling that affects your airway. If the burning product is prescribed, ask your dermatologist whether that sensation is expected before stopping it. For repeated reactions or an unclear trigger, a dermatologist can arrange medical patch testing to identify an allergy.245

How should you choose and test a different product?

If you have sensitive skin, start slowly with a low concentration; many skincare products contain 5% niacinamide or less. Introduce one new product at a time and follow its directions rather than applying extra. Avoid using several niacinamide products at once. A routine can include niacinamide without a separate serum, despite the industry's fondness for giving every step its own bottle.15

1. 1Apply the new product to a quarter sized spot on the underside of your arm or the bend of your elbow twice daily for seven to 10 days.
2. 2Use the normal amount and thickness, and leave it on for its usual contact time. Follow the directions for products that rinse off.
3. 3If there is no redness, itching, swelling or other reaction, begin using it on your face. If a reaction develops, wash it off and do not use it again.

Sensitive skin does not automatically rule out niacinamide. Two tested formulas containing niacinamide, panthenol and palmitoylethanolamide were well tolerated by participants with sensitive skin and winter dryness. Choose and test the whole formula rather than treating the ingredient name as a prediction of how your skin will respond.3

Niacinamide is also different from niacin, another form of vitamin B3 that can cause flushing. Niacinamide does not cause that niacin flush, so do not dismiss burning after application as the same phenomenon.6