Aftershave for men: what to choose and how to use it

Do you want skin care or a fragrance?

Aftershave can mean a moisturising product used after shaving or a scented splash worn as fragrance. Decide which job you want done before choosing a bottle. Aftershave appears in both skin care and perfume, which is a generous amount of responsibility for one word.13

A regular moisturiser can serve as your final shaving step; a separate aftershave is not essential for rehydrating skin. Moisturiser already belongs after shaving, even without a second bottle announcing the occasion.4

Which aftershave suits your skin?

• For dry skin, which feels rough, flaky or itchy, use a moisturising product after shaving.
• For sensitive skin, which can sting or burn after product use, choose mild products labelled fragrance free.
• For acne prone skin, look for a moisturiser labelled oil free or noncomedogenic, meaning formulated not to clog pores.
• For recurring razor bumps, choose a soothing aftershave formulated to reduce bumps and irritation, and change your shaving technique too.

Unscented is not the same as fragrance free: an unscented product can contain ingredients that mask other smells. Fragrance can cause irritation or allergic contact dermatitis, an itchy skin reaction to something touching the skin. A fragrance free label describes the intended use of fragrance materials, not necessarily the absence of every ingredient also used in fragrances. If you have a known fragrance allergy, check the ingredients rather than relying on the front label.3

What does alcohol free actually mean?

In cosmetic labelling, alcohol on its own means ethyl alcohol, also called ethanol. Denatured ethanol can appear as Alcohol Denat. or SD Alcohol. These names matter when you are avoiding alcohol in an aftershave for dry, irritated skin. Cetyl, stearyl and cetearyl alcohol are different: they belong to the fatty alcohol family and have different effects on skin. A product labelled alcohol free can contain fatty alcohols, so do not reject it just because an ingredient name ends in alcohol.6

How do you use aftershave balm for men?

1. 1Wash with a mild facial cleanser and warm water. Shave at the end of a shower, or soften the hair with a warm, damp washcloth.
2. 2Apply moisturising shaving cream or gel. Leave it for two to three minutes to soften the hair before shaving.
3. 3Shave in the direction the hair grows. Use light, short strokes, rinse the blade regularly and avoid repeatedly shaving the same area.
4. 4Rinse away the shaving cream. Follow with a cool, damp washcloth or a cold water rinse.
5. 5Apply your moisturising aftershave balm or facial moisturiser while the skin is still damp. This is general moisturising guidance; follow your particular balm's directions for the amount to use.

The useful time for aftershave is after your shave, whether that happens in the morning or later. Moisturise daily, including days you do not shave. Before going outdoors, apply a broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher to exposed skin. Reapply sunscreen every two hours, or immediately after swimming or sweating.2

Aftershave cannot do the razor's job

Shaving against the direction of hair growth causes irritation. Hair can grow in different directions across your face, so check the direction in each area rather than treating the whole beard as one patch. If you regularly get bumps, burns or ingrown hairs, try a razor with one or two blades instead of multiple blades, and do not stretch your skin taut while shaving.25

Replace disposable razors after five to seven shaves, and replace a blade sooner if it becomes blunt or damaged. Store your razor somewhere dry. Clean an electric razor every five to seven shaves. For recurring razor bumps, shaving daily or every two to three days gives hair less time to grow and curve back into skin. If stopping shaving is an option, growing the hair removes the shaving trigger.45

What should you expect after shaving?

A moisturising aftershave can soothe dry, irritated skin. Razor burn is a blotchy rash that often starts within minutes of shaving and lasts a few hours to a few days. Razor bumps are different: hairs curl back into the skin as they grow, creating small bumps that resemble pimples. These bumps are more common with curly hair, particularly in Black men. Choosing an aftershave and preventing ingrown hairs are related tasks, but they are not interchangeable.1

If an aftershave irritates your skin, stop using it. For razor burn, use a cool washcloth and a gentle moisturiser, and avoid shaving the affected area until it settles. Contact a healthcare professional if the rash does not clear within a few days or looks infected. Persistent razor bumps deserve a dermatologist's attention because untreated bumps can leave raised scars or deep grooves.15

Why do men shave?

Shaving removes unwanted facial hair quickly by cutting it at skin level. Hair returns above the surface within hours to a few days, which is why maintaining a clean shave often becomes a daily task. Shaving does not make hair grow back thicker: the cut tip feels stiffer and looks thicker because it has a blunt edge.4

Appearance and cultural expectations also influence facial hair choices, but preferences for beards and clean shaven faces are mixed and depend on context. Facial hair preferences change across cultures and circumstances, so there is no universal dress code for a chin.7