Aftershave without alcohol: what to choose and how to use it

What does alcohol free actually mean?

On cosmetic labels, alcohol free generally means the product contains no ethyl alcohol, also called ethanol or grain alcohol. It does not mean the formula contains no chemical whose name includes alcohol. Alcohols are a large family with different effects on skin, so rejecting every ingredient with that word would rule out some very different substances. Ethanol can also be denatured, meaning another substance has been added to make it undrinkable. That changes its label name, not its identity as ethyl alcohol.3

Should you choose a gel, lotion or cream?

Choose the texture for your skin type and how dry the shaved area feels. Moisturizers add moisture and help prevent water from leaving the skin; emollients are the components that keep skin soft and smooth. A gel and a cream offer different textures, even when both bottles audition for the same bathroom shelf.4

For combination skin, moisturize the dry areas rather than automatically applying a rich product everywhere. Too much moisturizer can clog pores in some people. Ceramides help hydrate skin, and hyaluronic acid is another moisturizing ingredient to look for. For dry skin, avoid formulas with fragrance or alpha hydroxy acids, and do not exfoliate dry, peeling areas instead of moisturizing them.4

Alcohol free does not mean fragrance free

Alcohol and fragrance are separate things to check. Fragrance can cause allergic contact dermatitis, an itchy skin rash caused by contact with an allergen. Aftershaves can contain fragrance allergens such as eugenol, hydroxycitronellal and oakmoss. Essential oils are also possible sources of fragrance allergens, so a natural formula is not automatically a suitable alternative for someone with fragrance allergy.5

Look for fragrance free rather than relying on unscented: an unscented product can contain a masking fragrance. If you have a diagnosed fragrance allergy, check the ingredients even when the front label says fragrance free, because that wording does not always exclude fragrance chemicals. Avoid your known allergens. A reaction can include redness, dryness, itching or swelling and can appear hours or days after use, rather than immediately after shaving.5

If you suspect fragrance allergy, speak with a doctor about patch testing. Discuss any home product test with your doctor first. A small area application test with a product designed to stay on skin can help assess allergy, but a product that causes no allergic reaction can still irritate skin.5

How to use alcohol free aftershave

1. 1Cleanse before shaving. Use warm rather than hot water. Shave after a shower or hold a warm, damp washcloth against the area to soften the hair.
2. 2Apply a moisturizing shaving cream. Shave in the direction the hair grows, using light, short strokes rather than repeatedly passing over the same area.
3. 3Rinse off the shaving cream. Place a cool, damp washcloth on the shaved skin if it needs soothing.
4. 4Gently pat the skin rather than rubbing it dry. Apply your gentle moisturizer or alcohol free moisturizing aftershave while the skin is still slightly damp.
5. 5For a morning shave, include broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher in your daytime routine. An alcohol free claim does not replace sun protection.

Apply the moisturizing product after shaving, whether you shave in the morning or evening. Ordinary moisturizer can also be used morning and night after cleansing; it is not restricted to shaving days. If irritation keeps recurring, review the shave itself as well as the aftershave. Replace disposable razors after five to seven shaves and store them in a dry place.16

What if your skin already burns after shaving?

Stop shaving or waxing the irritated area until the inflammation clears. A cool washcloth can soothe discomfort, and a fragrance free moisturizer or alcohol free moisturizing aftershave can help restore moisture. Aloe vera gel can provide cooling relief, but it is not a cure for razor burn. Avoid experimenting with apple cider vinegar, witch hazel or tea tree oil on irritated skin: vinegar and witch hazel can sting, and tea tree products can contain other troublesome ingredients.2

Razor burn usually appears within minutes of shaving and lasts a few hours to a few days. Changing aftershave addresses one possible irritant, but dry shaving, rushing, dull blades and shaving against hair growth can also cause irritation. Stop using a product that causes burning, itching or a rash rather than repeatedly applying it to test whether the reaction settles.7

Will alcohol free aftershave prevent razor bumps?

Razor bumps need attention to shaving habits, not just a different aftershave. Unlike the blotchy rash of razor burn, razor bumps resemble small pimples and develop when shaved hairs grow back into the skin. Softening hair before shaving and shaving with its growth can reduce bumps. For recurrent bumps on otherwise settled skin, shaving daily or every two to three days gives hairs less time to grow and curve. That is different from shaving over active razor burn, which needs a break.67

When should you get medical help?

See a healthcare provider if the irritation does not improve within a few days, gets worse, looks infected or becomes very painful. Large lesions containing pus need medical attention. Persistent razor bumps also deserve treatment because they can leave raised scars or deep grooves. Use acne medicines for shaving bumps only with your doctor's approval rather than treating every post shave rash as acne.267