The guidance here concerns alcohol in skincare, particularly ethanol, rather than drinking alcohol. Household rubbing alcohol is a separate product made with isopropyl alcohol. The word alcohol is a poor substitute for assessing the whole formula, even if it makes a very efficient blacklist.34
How does alcohol affect skin?
Ethanol can act as a solvent, change how a cosmetic feels, help ingredients enter skin and sometimes preserve the formula. Its effects on the skin barrier, the outer layer that helps retain water, depend partly on concentration. At higher concentrations, ethanol can change the arrangement of fats in that barrier and make it more permeable. More water escaping through the barrier can mean drier skin.3
Alcohol exposure can also contribute to irritant contact dermatitis, meaning inflammation caused by direct damage rather than an allergic reaction. Symptoms include pain and itching. A damaged barrier allows other irritants to enter more easily, and damaged skin is more vulnerable to a secondary bacterial infection. Removing the source of irritation matters more than continuing to use a product that hurts.5
Does a small amount cause the same problems?
Not necessarily. A small amount of alcohol in a toner can suit oily or acne prone skin, while older toners with high alcohol content were often drying and irritating. An alcohol based astringent removes oil but can be harsh. A moisturizing toner serves a different purpose: adding hydration rather than simply stripping oil away.1
A cream containing 12% ethanol caused no significant adverse changes in hydration, redness, skin acidity or water loss during 30 days of use by nine people with atopic dermatitis, a form of eczema. The cream was used on skin without active eczema lesions. Separately, ethanol concentrations above 15% impaired barrier integrity in pig skin tested outside the body. There is no universal percentage cutoff that makes every skincare product suitable for eczema; an actively inflamed patch needs more caution than unaffected skin.3
Does alcohol help other ingredients absorb?
Ethanol can enhance penetration, but adding ethanol to a cream does not always increase absorption. In a pig skin experiment, a cream containing ethanol reduced penetration of water soluble and fat soluble test dyes by about 40% and 20%, respectively, on intact skin. The effect was minimal on irritated skin. The ethanol cream also increased water loss and reduced hydration on intact skin, while the measurements moved in the opposite direction on irritated skin. Absorption depends on the formulation and the condition of the barrier, so alcohol content alone is not a useful measure of how well a serum or cream will work.2
Who should be more careful?
- Dry skin: Choose a gentle, moisturizing cleanser without alcohol, especially in cold, dry weather. Alcohol containing cleansers can add to dryness.
- Sensitive skin or eczema: Be more cautious with irritating formulas and damaged skin. Intolerance and sensitization to ethanol are possible even at lower concentrations.
- Oily or acne prone skin: A toner containing a small amount of alcohol can be suitable, but an astringent that leaves skin dry or irritated is a poor fit.
- Rosacea treated with prescription products: Consider how an added toner fits your existing routine and whether your skin tolerates it. Heavily fragranced toners and formulas with many dyes or preservatives can add irritation.
For dry skin, creams and ointments generally provide more moisture than lighter lotions. Useful moisturizing ingredients include glycerin, petrolatum, mineral oil and shea butter. If your skin becomes dry in winter, using retinol or exfoliating acids less often or at a lower concentration can also reduce the drying burden of the routine.6
How should you use a toner containing alcohol?
- 1Cleanse first, then apply the toner before moisturizer.
- 2Gently swipe the toner over your face or spray it as directed. Toner does not usually need rinsing off.
- 3Choose a frequency your skin tolerates. Toners can be used once or twice daily, but a formula with strong acids or other potentially irritating actives can be started every other day.
- 4Follow with moisturizer. During the day, apply sunscreen after moisturizer.
These are general toner directions, not a reason to apply every alcohol containing product in the same way. Follow the directions for the particular product. A toner belongs between cleanser and moisturizer, not at the centre of a new administrative department for your face.1
What if alcohol is in a facial mask?
Avoid facial masks containing rubbing alcohol because it can dry skin. For a new mask, test small areas first and follow the label's wear time and frequency. Leaving a mask on longer or using it more often can cause irritation. Avoid duplicating exfoliating ingredients already in your routine, particularly if you use retinol or acids. A mask is an optional addition to your routine, not a promotion to head of skincare.7
When should you stop using it?
Remove a product that is causing irritation rather than repeatedly exposing the affected skin. Wash off a facial mask immediately if it causes itching, burning or stinging; those symptoms can signal irritation or an allergy. Apply moisturizer after rinsing off the mask. See a dermatologist if your skin feels worse after using it, so the cause can be assessed and treated.57
Where this answer comes from
- 1What Does Toner Do for Your Face? 5 Benefitshealth.clevelandclinic.org
- 2Influence of Ethanol as a Preservative in Topical Formulation on the Dermal Penetration Efficacy of Active Compounds in Healthy and Barrier-Disrupted Skinpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 3A pilot study on the cutaneous effects of ethanol in a moisturizing cream on non-lesional skin of patients with atopic dermatitispmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 4Never Use Rubbing Alcohol To Bring Down a Feverhealth.clevelandclinic.org
- 5Personal protective equipmentdermnetnz.org
- 6Your winter skin survival kitaad.org
- 7Do facial masks work, and should I add one to my skin care routine?aad.org