What does alcohol do in cosmetics?

Which alcohol is on the label?

Read the full alcohol name rather than stopping at the shared word, because ingredient lists are not improved by speed reading.3

Why do brands put ethanol in cosmetics?

• As a solvent, ethanol helps dissolve other substances in the formula.
• As a viscosity decreasing ingredient, ethanol makes liquid products less thick.
• As an antifoaming ingredient, ethanol reduces the tendency of a product to foam when shaken.
• As an astringent, ethanol produces a tightening or tingling sensation.
• As a preservative, ethanol helps protect suitable formulas against microbes at sufficient concentrations.

These are jobs within the product, not reasons to seek out alcohol as a skin treatment. A tightening or tingling sensation describes ethanol's astringent effect; it is not a measure of how well another ingredient is working. Ethanol appears in makeup, lotions, fragrances, shaving products and other personal care formulas.1

Does ethanol dry skin or help ingredients absorb?

Ethanol can affect the skin barrier, the outer layer that limits water loss. It can change the arrangement of the barrier's fats and help substances penetrate skin, with effects that depend on concentration. Higher amounts can damage the barrier. For dry skin, avoiding ethanol containing products is a practical way to reduce a potential source of further dryness.26

More alcohol does not automatically mean better absorption. In laboratory tests on pig skin, an ethanol containing cream reduced the penetration of two dyes used to stand in for active ingredients on intact skin. The same cream increased water loss and reduced hydration there, but behaved differently on irritated skin. The finished formula and the condition of the skin matter, not just alcohol's presence.2

What does "alcohol free" actually mean?

An "alcohol free" label can still sit above an ingredient list containing other alcohols, because cosmetic labels have a talent for requiring a second read. The claim generally refers to the absence of ethyl alcohol, not every member of the alcohol family. Finding cetyl or cetearyl alcohol in that product is not a contradiction. Denatured alcohol, however, is still ethyl alcohol; denaturing makes it undrinkable, not a fatty alcohol.3

Who should be careful?

If your skin is dry, choose a gentle, moisturizing cleanser without ethanol and use a cream or ointment rather than a lighter lotion. Apply moisturizer while skin is still damp to help retain water. This is especially useful in cold, dry weather. Alcohol based lotions can also aggravate seborrheic dermatitis, a condition that causes patches of redness and scaling, often around the eyebrows, nose or scalp.467

What if a product causes a rash?

Stop recently added cosmetics if a rash develops. Use a gentle cleanser, avoid scrubbing and do not apply cosmetic lotions directly to the rash. A reaction does not identify alcohol as the cause: cosmetics can cause contact dermatitis, meaning skin inflammation caused by something touching it. Seek medical care if symptoms worsen or home care does not help. Shortness of breath, throat tightness or facial swelling require emergency help.7