Best toner for face brightening

Are you treating dullness or dark spots?

Glycolic acid and lactic acid are alpha hydroxy acids, often shortened to AHAs. They loosen the substances holding old surface cells together, helping those cells shed and leaving a fresher appearance with more even colour and texture. Regular use can also improve brown marks. A brighter surface and a faded dark spot are different goals, even if the bottle gives them the same job title.1

Hyperpigmentation means areas of skin are darker than the surrounding skin because of extra melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour. Sun damage, hormonal changes, skin injuries and some medications can contribute. When a mark follows acne, dermatitis or another injury, it is called postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. These marks can affect anyone, but they are more common, more intense and longer lasting in darker skin tones.34

Which brightening ingredients should you choose?

• For uneven surface texture, glycolic acid or lactic acid can help shed old surface cells.
• For existing dark spots, options include glycolic acid, azelaic acid, kojic acid and vitamin C. You do not have to restrict your choice to a toner.
• Niacinamide is another topical option for pigmentation. A product containing it is an alternative to consider, not an automatic winner over an acid toner.
• For easily irritated skin, prioritise gentler products. Irritation itself can trigger dark spots, particularly in darker skin tones.

Pigmentation treatments also come as creams and ointments, so the toner aisle does not have exclusive rights to an even skin tone. Choose the treatment around the problem you want to address, rather than the product format.3

One glycolic acid toner to consider

The INKEY List Glycolic Acid Toner contains 10% glycolic acid and has a lightweight, fast absorbing texture. The brand lists it for normal, combination and oily skin, not sensitive skin. For sensitive skin, The INKEY List suggests its PHA Toner instead. There is no single best acid strength for every face; follow the directions for the formula you choose.5

How to use a brightening toner

For The INKEY List Glycolic Acid Toner:

1. 1Patch test before adding the toner to your routine.
2. 2Use it at night after cleansing. The brand's main directions place it after hydration.
3. 3Saturate a cotton pad and sweep over your face and neck, avoiding your eyes. Do not rinse.
4. 4Follow with moisturiser.
5. 5Start with one to three nights per week. Do not start daily; the brand gives a maximum of three to four nights weekly for experienced users.
6. 6Use sunscreen the following morning.

Do not layer this toner with other exfoliating acids, retinol or vitamin C in the same routine. The INKEY List suggests vitamin C in the morning and acids or retinol on separate evenings. More generally, leave on AHA products are used at night and can be alternated with retinoid creams or vitamin C.15

What sunscreen helps with dark spots?

Use sunscreen daily. For dark spots, choose a tinted, water resistant sunscreen containing iron oxide with broad spectrum protection and SPF 30 or higher. Iron oxide helps protect against visible light, which can contribute to dark spots. For postinflammatory pigmentation on exposed skin, SPF 50 or higher is advised to minimise darkening from ultraviolet light. Apply before going outside, reapply every two hours outdoors and after swimming or sweating, and wear a wide brimmed hat.24

How long does brightening take?

The INKEY List gives a results window of up to six weeks for its glycolic acid toner. Dark spots have a longer timetable: once the cause has stopped, a spot a few shades darker than your skin usually fades within six to twelve months. Deeper pigment can take years. Pigmentation treatments can take months to show improvement, and new spots can appear later. Improving surface texture is not the same as clearing pigment, despite the shared enthusiasm for the word glow.235

If marks keep appearing after breakouts or eczema, addressing the underlying condition comes first. A toner cannot remove that ongoing trigger. Avoid picking pimples, which can injure skin. Do not try to accelerate fading with a stronger home peel: chemical peels can help surface pigmentation but can also aggravate pigmentation by injuring the skin, and they do not treat pigment deeper in the skin.234

Who should be careful?

Glycolic acid is considered safe in pregnancy. The INKEY List also labels this toner suitable for pregnancy and breastfeeding. Check with your doctor before combining it with prescription products. If you suspect medication is causing dark spots, ask the prescriber about it rather than stopping the medicine yourself.125

Stop a product that burns or stings. Seek medical care if a darkened area is red, hot, itchy, painful or leaking blood, pus or another substance; pigmentation alone does not cause those symptoms. If treatment is not giving you the improvement you want, a dermatologist can assess the cause and whether you need a prescription treatment or a combination of treatments.23