Can Anua Heartleaf Cleansing Oil cause breakouts?

Does the formula suit acne prone skin?

This answer concerns the Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil sold on Anua's US store. Anua markets it for sensitive and breakout prone skin and reports completed irritation testing. The formula contains fragrance, ethylhexyl palmitate and several plant oils, including sunflower, macadamia, olive and jojoba. The ingredient list alone cannot tell you whether the finished cleanser will cause your breakouts. Fragrance is a reason to be cautious with sensitive skin; a gentle, unscented cleanser is the simpler choice.123

Cleansing oils help lift oily makeup residue, and this product is intended to dissolve makeup, sunscreen and sebum before being rinsed away. Its job is to remove makeup and sunscreen, which is less glamorous than "glass skin" but more useful at bedtime. Treat it as a removal step, rather than choosing it solely because you want fewer spots.24

How should you use it?

Use the oil in the evening when you need to remove makeup or sunscreen. Introduce only one new skincare step at a time and keep the rest of your routine steady. Adding several products together makes an already reactive routine more complicated.35

1. 1Start with dry hands and a dry face. Anua directs you to dispense 2 to 3 pumps.
2. 2Massage gently in circular motions. Anua's routine guidance suggests a 60 second massage; do not scrub.
3. 3Add lukewarm water and massage until the oil turns milky. This emulsifying step helps the dissolved makeup rinse away.
4. 4Rinse thoroughly, including the hairline and jaw where makeup can remain.
5. 5Follow with a gentle water based cleanser, as Anua directs. Apply it to damp skin, rinse and pat dry.
6. 6Apply moisturizer after cleansing, including if your skin is oily.

Do you actually need an oil cleanser?

Oil cleansing is most useful for waterproof makeup and water resistant sunscreen. Most people do not need two cleansers, despite the skincare industry's enthusiasm for turning one task into two. If a gentle cleanser removes what you wear, there is no need to add this oil. For oily skin, a mild foaming face wash is a straightforward alternative. For dry, sensitive skin, choose a gentle, unscented water based cleanser; cream cleansers are less drying than foaming ones. Micellar water followed by a water based cleanser is another makeup removal option.17

What if you start breaking out?

If your skin becomes irritated, stop using the oil and return to a gentle cleansing routine. If new breakouts continue after introducing it, choose a different cleanser rather than repeatedly changing several products. Scrubbing and overwashing can worsen acne. Double cleansing can also cause dryness and irritation and damage the skin barrier, the outer layer that protects your skin. More washing is not the answer to a cleanser that does not suit you.137

Acne treatments usually need 4 to 6 weeks to show improvement, with clearing taking two to three months or longer. That treatment timetable is not a reason to continue an irritating cleanser. If you have a prescription acne routine, keep following your doctor's instructions rather than replacing treatment with cleansing oil.3

See a dermatologist if you develop deep blemishes that can scar, acne has not cleared with treatment available without a prescription, or the breakouts bother you and you want help clearing them.3