Can I use glycolic acid and niacinamide together?

What each ingredient does

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that exfoliates the surface of the skin by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells. It can help skin look smoother and brighter. Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, has a different role: The Ordinary says it supports the skin barrier and targets uneven tone and excess oil in its own serum. The two ingredients can complement each other, but niacinamide does not make glycolic acid irritation proof.123

At home products and peels are not the same

At home glycolic acid products usually have lower concentrations than in office chemical peels, which use higher concentrations. The Ordinary's 7% glycolic toner is one example of a product that its brand pairs with its niacinamide serum; it is not a required strength for everyone. Stronger glycolic acid also means more reason to follow the product directions and introduce it cautiously.123

How to layer them

1. 1At night, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your face dry.
2. 2Begin with glycolic acid once or twice a week. For its own products, The Ordinary applies its 7% glycolic toner after cleansing and before its niacinamide serum.
3. 3Apply niacinamide after the glycolic toner. The Ordinary says its 10% niacinamide plus 1% zinc serum can be used twice daily and should go before oils and heavier moisturizers.
4. 4After treatment, apply moisturizer. In the morning, use broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher and reapply every two hours.

Start glycolic acid at night once or twice a week, then increase gradually only if your skin tolerates it. Cleveland Clinic suggests working up to nightly use if there is no irritation, but nightly use is not a deadline with a clipboard. Glycolic acid can increase sun sensitivity, so use sunscreen during the day.23

When you are new to glycolic acid, do not start it at the same time as other exfoliants such as lactic or salicylic acid, retinol, or vitamin C serums. Limiting new active ingredients makes it easier to identify what is irritating your skin. Your face is a poor place to run a group audition, so introduce one new active at a time.2

What to expect and when

Glycolic acid exfoliates; the aim is smoother, brighter looking skin. With over the counter glycolic products, it can take several months of consistent use to notice brighter skin or more even pigmentation. There is no quick result to expect from layering niacinamide on top, so judge the routine over time rather than after one night.2

Who should be careful

Use extra care with glycolic acid if you have sensitive or dry skin, rosacea, eczema, an active skin infection, or skin that is not healing. Test a small area first and watch how your skin responds. Glycolic acid at low concentrations is generally considered safe during pregnancy, but check with a healthcare provider before use if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.2

When to stop

Stop using a product if it causes irritation, burning, or persistent dryness rather than trying to push through. Many product reactions are mild and settle, but persistent dermatitis needs medical advice. Glycolic acid gets the night shift because it can increase sun sensitivity.125