Why does retinol feel harsher in winter?
Cold air and low humidity make it harder for skin to retain moisture and can disrupt its protective barrier. Retinol can also cause dryness, peeling, itching and burning, so a routine you tolerated in summer can become uncomfortable in winter. Indoor heating dries the air too, so staying inside is not quite the skincare loophole it appears to be.123
How should I apply retinol?
Follow your product's directions or your prescriber's instructions. For a general bedtime routine:
- 1If retinol is new to you, test a little on a small area first. Wait a couple of days and check for marked redness or itching before using it on your face.
- 2Wash with a gentle cleanser, then pat your skin dry. Do not scrub.
- 3Apply a thin layer, using about a pea sized amount for your face. Keep retinol away from your eyes, mouth and nose.
- 4Finish with a facial moisturizer labeled noncomedogenic, meaning it is formulated not to clog pores.
Start once every few days rather than jumping into daily use. If you already use retinol regularly, winter dryness is a reason to reduce the number of applications or choose a lower concentration. There is no need to increase use while your skin is struggling. Visible improvements take several weeks, and changes in wrinkles usually take several months.12
What else should change in my winter routine?
Switch a light lotion for a richer cream if it is no longer keeping your skin comfortable. Choose gentle, fragrance free products and lukewarm washing water. On washes without retinol, apply moisturizer immediately afterward to trap moisture in your skin.4
Cut back on exfoliating acids such as glycolic or salicylic acid rather than trying to scrub away winter flakes. Before going outside, apply a thicker moisturizer and protect exposed skin with a scarf or other clothing. A bedroom humidifier can help with dry indoor air; aim for indoor humidity between 30% and 50%.13
Keep sunscreen in your daytime routine. Retinol increases sensitivity to sunlight, and winter does not remove the need for protection. Apply moisturizer first, then a broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher on skin not covered by clothing. A cream sunscreen can provide more moisture than a lotion or spray.12
When should I get advice?
If dryness or irritation persists despite a gentler routine, see a dermatologist rather than waiting for painful or cracked skin. Sensitive or allergy prone skin needs extra caution with retinol. If a prescription retinoid becomes too drying, discuss a winter adjustment with your prescriber; an over the counter retinol is one possible alternative. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, speak with your healthcare provider before using retinol.124
Where this answer comes from
- 1Your winter skin survival kitaad.org
- 2Retinol: Cream, Serum, What It Is, Benefits, How To Usemy.clevelandclinic.org
- 3Dry Skin in Winter: 9 Tips To Keep Hydratedhealth.clevelandclinic.org
- 4Cold weather and your skinaad.org