What does retinol do for skin?

What retinol changes in skin

Retinol encourages the skin to shed old surface cells and replace them with new ones. Faster renewal helps keep dead skin and oil from building up in pores, which is why retinol is used for acne. Retinol also increases collagen, a protein that helps support skin structure. This can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Retinol may also improve uneven tone and make some dark spots less noticeable. When pores look larger because they are clogged, clearing that buildup can make them less noticeable too.123

Retinol is one type of retinoid, the broader family of vitamin A based skin products. Over the counter retinol comes in creams, gels, lotions, ointments and serums; prescription retinoids include medicines such as tretinoin and adapalene. They are related, but their strengths and directions are not interchangeable. Retinol labels do not have to show a percentage, which makes the packaging an unexpectedly coy place to meet a number. If you are choosing an over the counter product, starting with the lowest strength you can find is the cautious approach.12

Retinol is most useful for mild acne, mild uneven pigmentation and mild fine lines. For acne, it helps prevent clogged pores, but breakouts can continue early in treatment. Some people find that retinol lightens sun spots, though this takes months and can irritate skin. Retinol can also reduce inflammation around breakouts and help prevent more spots. It does not always improve deeper acne scars that are raised or sunken, so those need a different level of care.12

Who should be careful with retinol?

Sensitive, dry or allergy prone skin is more likely to find retinol irritating. Retinoids can also worsen eczema because of their drying effect. If irritation occurs in darker skin, it can leave dark marks called hyperpigmentation, so start slowly and use moisturizer. Do not use retinoids during pregnancy. Retinol can make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so use sunscreen during the day and limit unnecessary sun exposure. If you are using prescription tretinoin rather than cosmetic retinol, follow its prescription directions and ask the prescriber before adding other acne medicines; tretinoin can interact with products such as benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid.124

How long does retinol take to work?

Retinol starts acting in skin cells before you can see a change. With regular use, an early improvement from over the counter retinol can take about three months. Dark spots can take months to fade, and changes in fine lines can also take several months. Acne can look worse for the first couple of months before it improves; this early flare is sometimes called a retinol purge. Regular use can take about three months to show improvement, which makes retinol a poor fit for anyone shopping on a deadline.13

How to start using retinol

Before using a new product on your face, test it on a small area of skin twice daily for seven to 10 days. Leave it on for as long as you normally would. A test can help predict a reaction, but retinol can still irritate sensitive skin. If the test area becomes red, itchy or swollen, wash the product off and do not use it again.5

1. 1Choose the lowest strength over the counter retinol you can find, and follow the product label. If the label does not state a percentage, that is not unusual.
2. 2Use it at night. Wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your skin dry. Do not scrub.
3. 3Apply a thin layer over the face, avoiding the eyes, nose and mouth. A pea sized amount is the suggested dose, which is a rare skin care direction that can be followed without a spreadsheet.
4. 4Start every other night for the first couple of weeks, rather than using it nightly from day one. Increase use gradually only as your skin tolerates it and the product directions allow.
5. 5Finish with a noncomedogenic moisturizer, meaning one designed not to clog pores. If retinol irritates your skin, a thin layer of moisturizer before applying it can act as a buffer.
6. 6In the daytime, use sunscreen and reduce sun exposure with shade or sun protective clothing.

Retinol side effects and purging

Common side effects include dry, irritated skin, itching, burning, redness, peeling and flaking. Mild irritation can be temporary as skin adjusts, but a severe reaction is not something to push through. An early increase in pimples can happen during acne treatment, but a rash or strong irritation is a different reason to stop. A cool compress or petroleum jelly can help; if a severe reaction does not ease, see a dermatologist.15

Can I use retinol every night?

Do not start every night. Begin every other night, then increase gradually if your skin tolerates it and your product directions allow. Use retinol at night because it can increase sun sensitivity, and protect your skin during the day. Some people may work up to more frequent use, but nightly use is not the starting dose for everyone. If dryness, redness or burning continues, use it less often or stop and reassess the product directions.124

When to get medical advice

Ask a health care professional before using a retinoid during pregnancy, and follow the prescriber's directions if you use prescription tretinoin. See a dermatologist if a severe skin reaction does not settle after stopping the product. For acne, get medical advice if deep or painful spots are causing scars, self care is not helping, there are signs of infection, or acne is affecting your mental health.567