Can skin purge before starting skincare?

Why am I breaking out before starting?

Acne develops when hair follicles become blocked with excess oil and dead skin cells. Bacteria can grow in those blocked follicles and cause inflammation and pus. Hormonal changes, certain medicines, and greasy skin or hair products can contribute. Starting a formal skincare routine is not a requirement for acne to develop. If you already use makeup, hair products or occasional skincare, include those when thinking about what has changed, rather than looking only at the routine you are about to start.1

What if spots appear after I start?

Check what you actually started before deciding what a new breakout means. Retinoids, a family of vitamin A products that includes retinol, increase surface skin cell turnover. Exfoliating acids also speed the removal of dead skin cells. Those actions are different from an ordinary breakout that began before treatment. Calling every new spot a "purge" gives the word a job it cannot reliably do. A new breakout alone does not tell you whether a product is helping or irritating your skin.23

Redness, peeling and dry skin are recognised retinoid side effects, and too much exfoliation can irritate skin. Do not treat those symptoms as proof that treatment is working. For acne treated with topical retinoid medicines, improvement can take 12 weeks or longer; that waiting period is not a reason to ignore worsening irritation.34

How should I start skincare with an existing breakout?

1. 1Start with gentle cleansing twice a day. Remove makeup at the end of the day, and choose products labelled noncomedogenic, meaning designed not to clog pores.
2. 2Do not scrub, pick or squeeze spots. Scrubbing can worsen acne, and picking or squeezing can cause scars.
3. 3If you want an acne treatment, ask a pharmacist about options such as salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide rather than assuming you need a retinol routine.
4. 4If you choose a cosmetic retinol, start with the lowest strength available, every other night, and use moisturizer. For a prescribed retinoid, follow the medicine's individual directions.
5. 5If you choose glycolic acid, start once or twice a week at night and increase only if your skin tolerates it. Use SPF 30 or higher sunscreen daily when using exfoliating acids.

When should I get help instead of waiting?

See a doctor if spots are deep, painful, numerous or causing scars, if self treatment is not helping, or if acne is affecting your mental health. Hot, swollen and red skin also needs medical assessment. Avoid retinoids during pregnancy. If you have skin allergies, substantial dryness or persistent redness and inflammation, discuss alternatives with a dermatologist before starting a retinoid. Retinoids can also worsen eczema through their drying effect.124