How often should you use AHA?

The right frequency depends on your skin type and how aggressive the exfoliation is. Stronger exfoliation needs more space between applications. If a less frequent schedule suits your skin, there is no need to make daily use the goal. Choosing an exfoliator starts with your skin type and existing routine, not the bottle with the most ambitious job description.3

AHA means alpha hydroxy acid, a group that includes glycolic and lactic acids. General AHA advice allows starting every other day and gradually building to daily application. It also suggests a starting product with a maximum AHA concentration of 10% to 15%; that is a ceiling, not a strength you need to aim for. The slower glycolic acid schedule above is a cautious starting option.14

An everyday AHA preparation and a professional peel are different uses of the same acid family. Professional glycolic peels can contain 20% to 70% acid and are usually repeated at one to two week intervals. Do not use a professional peel schedule or strength as a model for daily home skincare.5

How to introduce AHA

  1. 1Test a little glycolic acid on one area first and watch how your skin reacts.
  2. 2Start glycolic acid once or twice a week at night. Increase frequency only while your skin tolerates it.
  3. 3Apply moisturizer after exfoliating, because exfoliation can dry the skin.
  4. 4Use broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher during the day and reapply every two hours.
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Nighttime application does not remove the need for daytime sun protection. AHA can increase sun sensitivity while you use it and for up to a week after stopping. Alongside sunscreen, wear protective clothing and limit sun exposure throughout that period.4

Can you use AHA with other actives?

When introducing glycolic acid, avoid combining it with other exfoliants, retinol or vitamin C serums. Fewer actives make it easier to identify what causes irritation. Once established, AHA preparations can be alternated with retinoid creams or vitamin C rather than used together. Prescription retinoids and benzoyl peroxide also deserve caution: exfoliating alongside them can worsen dryness or cause breakouts.235

Who should be careful, and when should you stop?

Be cautious with glycolic acid if you have dry or sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema or an active skin infection. Low concentration glycolic acid is generally considered safe in pregnancy, but check with your healthcare provider before using it while pregnant or breastfeeding.2

Do not exfoliate sunburned skin or areas with open cuts or wounds. Stop increasing frequency if your skin becomes red or irritated. Avoid aggressive exfoliation if you have a darker skin tone or develop dark marks after skin injuries, because it can increase pigmentation. A dermatologist can help you decide whether exfoliation is appropriate if you are unsure.3

How long does AHA take to work?

AHAs loosen the connections between surface skin cells so old cells shed, helping improve colour and texture. The useful result is smoother, more even looking skin, not a bathroom shelf that qualifies as a collection. With home glycolic acid products, brighter skin or more even pigmentation can take several months of consistent use.25

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Popular Skin Care Ingredients Explainedhealth.clevelandclinic.org
  2. 2Glycolic Acid: Benefits for Skin and How To Usehealth.clevelandclinic.org
  3. 3How to safely exfoliate at homeaad.org
  4. 4Guidance for Industry: Labeling for Cosmetics Containing Alpha Hydroxy Acidsfda.gov
  5. 5Alpha hydroxy acid facial treatmentsdermnetnz.org