What does lanolin do in a formula?

Lanolin is a purified wax obtained from sheep's fleece. It is a complex mixture, mainly of esters, with alcohols, fatty acids, sterols and hydrocarbons. Alongside its emulsifying function, lanolin has emollient properties: it lubricates intact skin, supports its lipid barrier and helps maintain moisture. Its role in a cream is therefore not limited to emulsification.12

Lanolin appears in moisturisers, barrier creams, glossy lipsticks and makeup removers; the cream aisle does not have exclusive custody.1

Can you use it to make a cream?

Lanolin's emulsifying function makes it relevant to cream formulation, but it is not a complete recipe. Calling lanolin an emulsifier is useful, but a mixing bowl still does not accept job titles as instructions. The practical questions are the amount, the other ingredients and the preparation method for the specific formula. A general yes to lanolin does not settle those details or whether it can replace another emulsifier.1

If you are developing a cosmetic for the EU market, an ingredient's appearance in CosIng, the European Commission's cosmetic ingredient database, is not approval to use it. The applicable cosmetics regulation determines permitted use, and the finished product needs a safety assessment. Ingredient function and permission to market a finished cream are separate questions.3

Who should be careful with lanolin?

Lanolin can cause irritation or allergic contact dermatitis, an itchy skin reaction after contact with an allergen. Broken skin, eczema and wounds increase the risk of becoming sensitised. Previous use without a reaction does not rule out a later allergy. Stop using a lanolin product if redness, itching, swelling or blistering develops after application.1

For a persistent or recurring reaction, a clinician can investigate with patch testing. A cream contains several possible triggers, including preservatives, fragrance and emulsifiers, so lanolin is not automatically the cause. If lanolin allergy is confirmed, avoid lanolin and its derivatives; label names include wool alcohols, wool fat, wool wax and anhydrous lanolin.14

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Contact Reactions to Lanolindermnetnz.org
  2. 2Hypersensitivity to Lanolin: An Old–New Problempmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3Cosmetic ingredient databasesingle-market-economy.ec.europa.eu
  4. 4Moisturizer Allergy: Diagnosis and Managementpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov