What actually determines pore size?

Pore size is largely genetic, which gives pore shrinking marketing a fairly awkward job description. The size of your sebaceous glands, the glands that produce skin oil, helps determine pore size. Oil production, aging and sun damage also affect how prominent pores look. Collagen and elastin provide support around pores; losing those proteins allows the openings to widen. Removing a blockage does not address that loss of support.12

Why do clogged pores look larger?

A blackhead develops when excess oil and dead skin cells build up inside a pore. As that buildup accumulates, it widens the opening. The dark colour comes from a reaction with oxygen, not dirt. Keeping pores clear can therefore improve their appearance without permanently shrinking them. Pores let sweat and oil reach the skin's surface, so eliminating the openings would be a rather poor renovation.13

What helps pores look smaller?

For lasting improvement in appearance, use a routine that reduces clogging and protects skin firmness rather than relying on removing a visible plug. These are general pore care steps, not directions for a particular strip.1

  1. 1Cleanse gently each morning and evening. Use warm water and a gentle cleanser labelled noncomedogenic, meaning it is formulated not to clog pores. Avoid hot water and scrubbing.
  2. 2If clogged pores or blackheads are the problem, consider a salicylic acid cleanser. Salicylic acid can unclog pores. If it dries or irritates your skin, alternate it with a mild cleanser, using the mild cleanser in the morning and salicylic acid before bed.
  3. 3Moisturize, including if your skin is oily. Overly drying products can stimulate more oil production, so stripping away as much oil as possible is not the goal.
  4. 4Apply broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every day. Sun damage reduces skin firmness, making pores more noticeable.
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Would retinol help instead?

Retinol can help unclog pores and increase collagen production. Start with a thin layer at night twice a week, increasing gradually as tolerated. Retinol can cause irritation and increase sun sensitivity. Waiting 30 minutes after washing before applying it can reduce irritation. Do not use retinol or retinyl palmitate during pregnancy or breastfeeding.14

When should you get help?

Avoid squeezing or digging into pores: irritation can make them more noticeable, and squeezing blackheads can cause infection or permanent scars. If oiliness remains bothersome after a month or two of routine changes, see a dermatologist. For pores made prominent by reduced skin firmness, a dermatologist can assess whether a procedure would help.234

Where this answer comes from

  1. 17 Dermatologist Approved Tips to Shrink Your Poreshealth.clevelandclinic.org
  2. 28 Tips To Get Rid of Oily Skinhealth.clevelandclinic.org
  3. 3Acne: Signs and symptomsaad.org
  4. 4What can treat large facial pores?aad.org