What can you use to grow a beard?

For a naturally sparse beard, patience is a reasonable first step. Most beards continue developing in thickness and coarseness between ages 18 and 30. A thin beard alone does not usually mean low testosterone, particularly if puberty and hair growth elsewhere developed normally. Reduced sex drive, erectile dysfunction or loss of armpit and pubic hair alongside limited facial hair warrant a discussion with your doctor.1

Minoxidil has some evidence for increasing beard hair, but facial use is outside its FDA approved uses. A small trial involving 48 men found increased facial hair counts after 16 weeks using a 3% liquid solution. That is evidence for minoxidil, not ordinary beard oil. Whether the extra facial hair remains after stopping treatment is unknown.3

Speak with a dermatologist before trying minoxidil on your face rather than copying a trial's routine. Side effects include irritated skin, itching and unwanted hair growth elsewhere. Palpitations and a fast heart rate have also been reported, and people with cardiovascular disease need closer monitoring.23

How can you make a sparse beard look fuller?

Choose a beard style that trims away areas with sparse growth, or let nearby hairs grow longer to cover gaps. Beard wax can hold those longer hairs in place. Styling can change how full a beard looks, which is a smaller job than the word "growth" suggests.2

What if the skin beneath your beard is dry or breaking out?

For dry skin, work a facial moisturizer through your beard and into the skin underneath. Moisturizing addresses dryness and discomfort, not sparse growth. Cold or dry weather, some soaps and shampoos, and certain medications can contribute to dryness. Eczema and psoriasis can also cause dry, itchy skin, so persistent itching is not automatically a reason to add more oil.4

If you have acne beneath your beard, skip beard oil and use a small amount of noncomedogenic beard conditioner, meaning one formulated not to clog pores. Gently wash the beard and underlying skin rather than scrubbing. Beard hairs can trap skin oil, dead skin cells and bacteria against the skin, contributing to clogged pores.2

Does beard oil help with dandruff?

Do not treat beard oil as a dandruff treatment. Flakes accompanied by an itchy rash, scaly skin or greasy patches can be seborrheic dermatitis, the medical name for dandruff, rather than simple dryness. Gently brush the beard before washing to lift loose scale. Dandruff shampoo used on the beard and scalp at least once a week is a treatment option. Suitable active ingredients include 2% zinc pyrithione, 1% ketoconazole or 1% selenium sulfide.2

If discomfort comes from razor bumps while growing your beard, stopping shaving can let trapped hairs grow out of the skin. You should see fewer bumps within one month, with clearing after three months. New bumps can still appear initially from hairs cut during the last shave; that does not mean your beard needs a growth product.5

When should you see a doctor?

Have new, unusual or uneven beard loss checked, especially round patches of missing hair. Alopecia areata is an immune condition that can cause this pattern. See a dermatologist for a persistent beard rash, or dandruff accompanied by pain, broken skin or acne like breakouts.12

Where this answer comes from

  1. 15 Reasons Why You Can’t Grow a Beardhealth.clevelandclinic.org
  2. 2DIY treatment for 5 common beard problemsaad.org
  3. 3Facial hair enhancement with minoxidil—an off-label usepmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4What May Be Causing Your Itchy Beard?health.clevelandclinic.org
  5. 5Razor bump remedies for men with darker skin tonesaad.org