Does double cleansing work?

What double cleansing does

Double cleansing pairs an oil based cleanser first with a water based cleanser second. The oil cleanser targets oil based residue and excess sebum, or skin oil; the water based cleanser removes water soluble dirt and sweat. The first cleanser earns its place by handling makeup or sunscreen, not by being the first entrant in a two cleanser loyalty scheme. The extra step can also help the water based cleanser work and may help later skin care products penetrate better, but that does not make two washes necessary for everyone.1

How to double cleanse

1. 1Gently massage the oil based cleanser over your skin to loosen makeup, sebum and sunscreen residue.
2. 2Rinse with warm water using your hands or a washcloth. Avoid hot water, which can dry your skin.
3. 3Leave your skin damp, then apply the water based cleanser and massage gently.
4. 4Rinse thoroughly and pat your skin dry with a soft towel.

When to do it

Use the two step method in the evening when you need to remove makeup or sunscreen before bed. It is not a twice daily requirement: most skin types do not need two cleanses, and a careful single wash is enough for many people. Makeup free evenings are a good reason to skip the extra step.13

Who should double cleanse?

It can be useful if you wear waterproof makeup or sunscreen, because an oil based cleanser can help loosen that residue. An oil cleanser can also be helpful for oily skin as a first step to remove excess sebum. If you rarely wear makeup and do not use water resistant sunscreen, there is little reason to make two cleansers part of every evening.1

Which cleansers suit your skin?

For dry or sensitive skin, choose a gentle, unscented water based cleanser; cream cleansers are less drying than foaming ones. Avoid harsh, drying or fragranced cleansers. Oily or acne prone skin may suit a water based foaming cleanser. Options listed for that skin type include salicylic acid, glycolic acid or benzoyl peroxide. Combination skin can use a water based foaming cleanser, while normal skin can use a gentle, unscented water based cleanser. Cream and foam are formula choices, not a personality test. If you have acne prone skin, know that an oil based cleanser can cause breakouts, especially when used alone.1

What can go wrong?

Two rounds of cleansing can become overwashing. Overwashing can cause dryness, irritation and damage to the skin barrier, which can contribute to problems such as breakouts and eczema. Some dermatologists take a stricter view and recommend cleansing once per routine rather than adding a second wash. Stop using a cleanser if you develop irritation or contact dermatitis, a rash caused by skin contact, and make an appointment with a dermatologist.14

What can you use instead?

If makeup removal is the main issue, micellar water before a water based cleanser is one alternative. For acne prone skin, an oil free makeup remover followed by a gentle cleanser is another option. Remove makeup before bed, wash gently with your fingertips and lukewarm water, and do not scrub.13

What goes on after cleansing?

After the final rinse, apply any medication or skin treatment, then moisturizer. In the morning, sunscreen goes on after moisturizer. Double cleansing changes the washing step, not the order of the rest of your routine.5