How does cleansing oil work?

How does oil wash off with water?

Many cosmetic residues and impurities are not soluble in water. That is why splashing water on your face is not enough to remove everything. An oil cleanser helps break down oily material, including waterproof makeup and sunscreen. Sebum, the oil your skin produces, is another substance an oil cleanser can help remove.13

A surfactant has two parts: one attracts oil and the other attracts water. The oil attracting part attaches to oily dirt and loosens it from the skin. The water attracting part allows that material to wash away. Emulsification means dispersing oily material into finer particles that can be removed with water, which is less glamorous than the bottle usually makes it sound.34

The aim is to remove surface residue while preserving the skin barrier, the outer layer that helps hold water in and protects the skin. Its structure includes skin cells surrounded by protective fats. Harsh cleansing can disturb those fats and proteins. Removing more oil is therefore not automatically a better result.2

How do you use cleansing oil?

1. 1Put the cleanser into your palm and gently massage it into your skin to loosen makeup, sunscreen and excess oil.
2. 2Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water, using your hands. Avoid hot water, which can dry your skin.
3. 3If you are double cleansing, leave your face damp and gently apply a water based cleanser.
4. 4Rinse again, then pat your face dry with a soft towel.

Rinsing is part of the cleansing process, not an optional finish. Cleanser residue left on the skin can increase irritation, and the type and amount of surfactant affect how drying a formula is. Judge the whole formula and how well it rinses, rather than assuming an oily texture must be gentle.3

Do you need a second cleanser?

Double cleansing means an oil cleanser followed by a water based cleanser. It can be useful for waterproof makeup or waterproof sunscreen. For most people, one thorough wash with a gentle cleanser is enough, so the second wash does not earn its place just by being second. Overwashing can cause dryness, irritation and damage to the skin barrier.1

Who should be careful with cleansing oil?

Oily skin can benefit from removing excess sebum, but acne prone skin needs more caution: oil cleansers can cause breakouts, especially when used alone. If you have acne, an oil free makeup remover followed by a gentle cleanser is an alternative. Look for products labelled "won't clog pores" or "noncomedogenic," meaning formulated not to clog pores. Remove makeup before bed and use fingertips rather than scrubbing. If breakouts continue and you cannot identify the cause, a dermatologist can help.15

Sensitive skin can sting during or just after cleansing. Fragrances, preservatives and botanical ingredients can trigger reactions, and some cleanser formulas cause acne. If you already use acne treatments that stay on your skin, be cautious about adding a cleanser with acne treatment ingredients: the combination can cause excessive dryness and irritation.4

How do you test a new cleansing oil?

Before using a new cleanser on your face, test your usual amount on a small area of your inner arm or elbow twice daily for seven to 10 days. For this test, wash the cleanser off after five minutes or after the time its instructions specify. If redness, itching or swelling develops, gently wash it off and stop using it. A cool compress or petroleum jelly can help relieve the reaction. See a dermatologist if the reaction is severe and those measures do not relieve it, or if you cannot work out which ingredient is responsible.6