Bioré cleansing oil: what it does and how to use it

Which Bioré cleanser do you have?

Look at the full product name before choosing a routine. Bioré has several cleansers with different names and jobs, so the brand name alone is doing rather a lot of unpaid work. Its US and UK ranges include Oil Control Deep Pore Charcoal Cleanser, which Bioré describes as suitable for oily skin and everyday use. Directions for that foaming gel should not be treated as directions for a cleansing oil. For a Bioré cleansing oil, follow the instructions on your particular bottle; the oil cleansing steps below are general guidance.234

What does a cleansing oil do?

An oil based cleanser helps loosen oily residue on the skin, including makeup and excess sebum, the skin's natural oil. Cleansers also contain surfactants, cleaning ingredients with an oil attracting part and a water attracting part. One part loosens oil and dirt; the other helps the residue wash away. That rinsing action matters: removing makeup is not simply spreading oil around and leaving it there. Cleansing removes surface buildup, rather than permanently changing how much oil your skin produces.156

How to use a cleansing oil

1. 1Wash your hands before starting your cleansing routine.
2. 2Put the oil based cleanser into your palm and gently massage it over your skin to loosen makeup, sunscreen and surface oil. Follow your bottle's directions for the amount and whether to start with wet or dry skin.
3. 3Rinse with lukewarm water, using your hands rather than scrubbing with a cloth.
4. 4If you are double cleansing, leave your face damp and gently apply a water based cleanser.
5. 5Rinse thoroughly and pat your skin dry with a soft towel.

Do you need it morning and night?

Use makeup removal before bed, including removal of eye makeup. General guidance for oily or acne prone skin is to wash with a mild cleanser on waking, before bed and after activities that make you sweat. That does not mean using a cleansing oil at every wash. Reserve the extra removal step for makeup or sunscreen that needs it, rather than automatically repeating the whole routine in the morning.17

Do you need a second cleanser?

Double cleansing means using an oil based cleanser followed by a water based cleanser. Double cleansing means two washes in one routine, not a promotion to a higher skincare rank. The extra step is most useful for waterproof makeup or waterproof sunscreen. Most people only need one thorough wash with a gentle cleanser. Adding more washing can cause dryness, irritation and damage to the skin barrier, the outer layer that helps retain moisture.1

Is cleansing oil suitable for oily or acne prone skin?

Oil cleansing can help remove excess oil, but it can also cause breakouts in acne prone skin, especially when used alone. For acne prone skin, a practical alternative is an oil free makeup remover followed by a gentle cleanser. Look for products labelled oil free, won't clog pores or noncomedogenic, which means designed not to clog pores. Do not try to control shine by washing harder: irritation can increase oil production. Continue moisturizing, because oily skin still needs moisture.167

What if your skin is dry or sensitive?

Choose gentle, unscented cleansers and avoid formulas that leave your skin excessively dry. A cream cleanser is generally less drying than a foaming cleanser. Stinging during or just after washing is common in sensitive skin, and cleansers can cause irritation or an allergic reaction. Do not add repeated washes to chase a cleaner feeling. If you also use an acne cleanser and acne products that stay on the skin, be careful about combining them: too much treatment can cause excessive dryness and irritation.15

What should you expect, and when should you stop?

The immediate purpose of cleansing is to remove makeup, sunscreen, dirt and excess oil. A cleanser is not a quick fix for ongoing oil production. Stop using a cleanser that causes redness, itching, swelling or persistent irritation, and stop products that appear to trigger new breakouts. If you cannot work out which product is causing acne, a dermatologist can help. If changes to an oily skin routine have not helped after a month or two, consider seeking medical advice rather than adding more cleansing.567