Can panthenol products suit oily skin?

In a trial involving 177 participants with impaired skin barriers, La Roche Posay Mask Pro was used by groups with dry sensitive, oily sensitive and oily acne skin. Assessments continued through 14 days. In the oily acne group, the panthenol enriched mask reduced skin oil, redness and water loss through the skin. No adverse reactions were observed across the groups. Those results concern that mask, rather than every product containing panthenol. They also leave the pore clogging potential of panthenol itself unsettled.1

How should you choose a panthenol product?

Look for "noncomedogenic" or "won't clog pores" on the finished product. These products do not cause breakouts in most people. A pore friendly label is more useful shopping information than a heroic product name. Some skincare products contain oils or other ingredients that cause breakouts, so the presence of panthenol does not settle the choice either way.2

If your acne prone skin feels dry, choose a moisturizer made for acne prone skin and apply it twice daily after washing. Use a mild, noncomedogenic cleanser and avoid scrubbing. Drying out or irritating skin can cause more breakouts. These are general acne care steps, not a special application schedule for panthenol; follow your chosen product's directions.2

What if you get bumps after starting it?

Whiteheads are blocked follicles, while blackheads are open comedones. Comedones form when skin cell debris blocks the oil duct and hair follicle, with increased skin oil contributing. New bumps after starting a product are a reason to consider the product as a whole, rather than identifying panthenol as the cause from the ingredient list.3

For tiny bumps along the hairline, upper forehead or back of the neck, also consider shampoos, conditioners and styling products. Oils from hair products can reach skin and clog pores. Stop using a suspected pore clogging hair product and remove its residue. Hair product residue can stick to pillowcases, hats and headbands, so the investigation sometimes comes with laundry.4

Acne caused by hair products can take 4 to 6 weeks to clear after stopping them. If it has not cleared within 6 weeks, see a dermatologist. Deep or painful acne also needs a dermatologist's help. Avoid repeatedly switching acne treatments: irritation from frequent changes can cause breakouts. Acne treatments generally need 6 to 8 weeks for some improvement; that timetable is for acne treatment, not a promise that panthenol will clear blocked pores.24

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Efficacy and safety of a panthenol-enriched mask for individuals with distinct impaired skin barrier subtypespubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 210 skin care habits that can worsen acneaad.org
  3. 3Comedonal acnedermnetnz.org
  4. 4Are your hair care products causing breakouts?aad.org